I've got the engine mount from  CG Products

2013 - Going to make the BIG purchase - Aerosportpower is my choice IO-375-B1B I'm going to have an MT constant speed prop too. This is I think the best choice as the Cozy is a very hard plane to slow down.

Got the Engine from Aerosportpower they've been great.

Here she is ready to go.  Got all logs showing build and test ran for 12 hours dyno tuned.

Yes it's all there, 205HP ready to go.

Got the Engine IO375B1B  205hp

Love the blue

Getting ready to fit the cowl.

Weighting down the nose getting ready to mount the engine for the first time.

Getting ready for the big lift, got the come along connected to the ceiling rafters with I bolts.

Looks so good I can't wait for full power take off....

Engine is in the air.

Stand made as called for in the plans, I added carpet padding, want to keep the paint in good condition.

Engine landing on the stand

White and blue looks good to me, Test fit of engine mount

There she is, WOW does that change the CG.

Just to make sure I don't have an upset, I put the engine stand under one wing.

Cowling from Feather Lite more suppliers found on CozyAircraft home page

Cowling trim and fit test, good clearance around the engine, small amount of trimming at wing roots.

Created some support legs to hold bottom cowling in place during test fit process.

Creating Naca scoop for bottom cowl firewall opening.

Top and bottom cowling fitted, ready for next step.

Creating the flanges for the cowl connection to the wing root.

Inside picture of the wing root flange connection fabrication process.

Top cowl flange fabrication

Left wing root flange fabrication

Firewall template getting ready for the FIBERFRAX and aluminum heat shield

I am using the 732 High temp Multi Purpose Sealant silicone adhesive/sealant. I used the notched tool to coat the fiberglass, then the aluminum heat shield making multi layer protection.

FEATURES
• One-component adhesive/sealant
Cures at room temperature when
exposed to moisture in the air
•Acetoxy cure system
• Non-sag, paste consistency
• Easy to apply
• Cures to a tough, flexible rubber
• Good adhesion to many substrates
Stable and flexible from
60°C (76°F) to +180°C (356°F),
with short peaks up to +205°C
(401°F)
•Black version: stable and flexible
from 60°C (-76°F) to+205°C (401°F), with short peaks
up to +230°C (446°F)
• Excellent dielectric properties
• Complies with MIL-A46106A
• Complies with FDA 177.2600
• Available in white, black or clear

Here is the completed installation

Second shot show the protective plastic still on the aluminum heat shield, waiting for cure.

My MT prop shipping container was delivered on Aug. 2015 can't wait to get the prop on the engine.

I tell you one thing the Germans make better shipping container then some furniture I've owned. 

Here she is 68" constantans speed in gray so the engine exhaust doesn't show as much as it would on white.

With the nose cone on,  the governor is in the box just below the spinner in this picture, the engine is set up with the mount for this configuration. The way I looked at it was, giving me a transmission options when in high altitude operations. As most people know it takes a lot to slow the Cozy down for landing.

The second part of the constant speed prop setup is the governor, just enough room from the firewall. Had to shift the engine 3/4inch back. I don't think it will impact C/G that much will have to do a check once I get to that point.

Engine mounted to the firewall, one step at a time. So cool I can't wait till she's in the air with me along for the ride of course.

Building of fuel boost pump, the pump is on the lower right with pressure recycle valve loop to tee fitting , filter on left gold color.

Mounting the fuel boost pump as low as possible for two major reasons, below the two wing tanks, and in the high pressure air stream to keep the fuel cool on hot Houston days.To make the baffles I started with a tracing of the blue prints from the plans and spray glued to construction paper to make them stiff enough to test fit.

With the different jug neck on this model engine I had to make templates first as this it's easer to modify paper and when you've got it fitting correct to then transfer to metal baffles.

As you can see here the neck is conical tapper.

This tapper changed every baffle for the four cylinders necks eight in total.

As you can see with the blue tape shows where minor adjustments had to be made as each engine is not the same as the plans baffles.

In this picture you can see the center baffle that had to be adjusted to fit the conical taper jug necks, this was one of the major reasons I did all the baffles in paper first.

Cylinder head baffle right

Building the heat duct control valve, working nice with a push pull cable.

Same side with the bolts in place and clips holding the corners.

This shows how much tapper is in the neck and the adjustments made on the baffle templates.

Taped in place to allow rivet work.

High temp. blue silicon rubber baffles, good to 450 deg.

Details show how the spark plug wires go through baffle.

On the right side of the picture you can see how the baffle work with fuel lines.

Letting the pass through and conforms to the shape give a good seal.

Like any other projects you will have many fronts moving forward, in this picture here is the lower cowl baffles that will direct the NACA high pressure air up into the engine. Got to keep her cool.

Moved the fuel injectors to the top of the engine away from the exhaust pipes

Had to create a new bracket for the distribution block for the injector lines. I was not sure how the injection system worked as I've only working with E.F.I. systems. The way the engineer explained it to me is the fuel is metered at a constant rate depending on servo control positions into the intake header just before the intake valves. So there is no injection order to match to the firing order.

In this picture you can see the injector just above the lower intake port and the head oil return line.

Fuel lines from fuel boost pump to mechanical engine pump to fuel servo to injectors. The red cover is fire hose protection for the fuel lines.

In this picture you can see the two fuel lines one from each wing tank sump. Note the fuel check valves that prevent flow from one tank to the other. Example if you are flying in a cross wind that may have one wing lower you can see that high to low would be a problem, hence the check valves to stop that from happening.

Oil cooler mounted and rock solid.

Below the oil cooler you can see the hand made bracket with the wholes to lighten it as much as possible. Of course made in paper first with some adjustments to get it right before copied into metal.

Here you can see the Aeroquip 666 3/8 lines, with the AE21496-H ends.  That was a long search to find a location that has the hydraulic crimper mandrel machine. Turned out to be a NAPA auto store that did it for me.

I'm going to vent the oil cooler heat out the top cowling so here's the duct work to do so.

Doesn't look like much but this is the rough form waiting for the glass to cure.

Completed Oil cooler duct work sending hot engine air out the top cowling.

Electrical supplies as you can see I want to make sure all wiring is protected.

Using mish weave wire sleeves, pass through firewall with brass FW connection.

Rated to 400 deg.

Color coding the connection make go back to fix an issue that much easer.

Here is a picture showing the Dynon installation book for the (Engine Monitoring System) EMS

The EMS and Fuel level probes computers will be on the inside of the FW.

EMS will be in the lower section and the fuel probes will be in the spar along with other heat sensitive electronics.

EGT, CHT probes with wiring rough runs. above you can see the heat muff run for the cabin heat.

Pilot side you can see the MAP tube coming from #3 and the wiring harness for the EMS probes.

Fuel and Oil pressure probes mounted on line away from engine vibrations.

Right side EGT /CHT probes run with braded stainless line due to high temps.

Fuel flow on the discharge side of the boost pump "RED" block.

You can also see the mixture push/pull cable with the plate I added to help clear the fuel lines.

Fuel servo with the throttle push/pull cable.

More to come  Lot's more...