Here you can see the strut temporally mounted on two screws on my work table top, I used 5 min. epoxy. After the glass is cured a sharp rap on each screw breaks the strut loose, worked out nicely.

There has been some issues with NG30 so I am following the design change recommendations.

Cut foam to new dimensions and started glassing pivot point for landing gear.

Marking location for EZ-Noselift hard points and the hard points for landing gear pivot floxed.

Glassing inside with the additional bid strips.

Glassing out side with bid strips and hard points for power retraction system.

Hard points used to mount the EZ-Noselift hardware.

NG30 outside finished glass.

Removed foam and glass inside of landing gear pivot location on NG30.

Flox the strut to the pivot bearing making sure it is centered in between NG30s.

Clamp until flox is cured.

In this picture you can see the 1/4" plate in front of the bearing and the attachment point of the landing gear actuator.

Test fit of F0 with NG30, you can see the foam part f6 I am using the cut out from the main spar access openings.

Glassed F0 with NG30 assembly.

Mounting NG30 to fuselage

Carved and added nose bottoms using thick macro.

Glassed bottom inside up to where the sides will attach, so you do not hit the glass when carving the sides.

You can see the glass runs on to the floor back past f22.

Nose bulkhead glassed and peel ply.

I am using the ballast box location for my landing lights.

These lights are 55w halogen each, focused beam. I used a tube bender to get the pitot tube just right so it fits without being in the way of the lights and is sloping up.

Sides macro in place and inside glassed.

One side required a little clamping pressure to hold in place for cure.

As you can see I am going to have landing gear doors for the front wheel well.

In this picture you can see how the lights fit in the ballast box and the bracket that will hold the brake fluid reservoir. I am using Matco master cylinders.

Foam blocks build up for nose.

Inside shot of wheel well opening.

The blue PVC foam is for the rudder pedals mounting hard point and the bottom of the canard area. Also you can see the pitot and static tubes.

Velocity rubber pedals, I will paint them before final installation.

Opening on each end is for the canard attachment tabs.

Static tube floxed in place, marked the outside location to make it easer to drill the 3 - 1/16th holes.

Made a cardboard cover that fits the shape of the strut giving enough room for any movement once installed.

In the back you can see the cardboard form and the finished strut cover. To the left you can see the 1/8" hard board I used to match the cure of the strut. Packing tape using to cover all allowing release.

Strut cover test fit.

Wheel well cover with the foam still inside waiting for the glass to cure.

Window added to wheel well cover on each side, used to view landing gear position.

Started shaping the sides.

Finished the side and bottom and floxed in the strut cover, weight down for cure.

Finished landing lights openings, I will use Lexan covers.

Glassed bottom, you can see the pitot tube at the tip of the nose.

You can see that the strut is not yet cut free, waited until glass got to knife trim stage, then used a steel ruler as a straight edge. Came out real nice.

Nose foam rough fit, ballast box glassed.

Foam will be glued in place with 5 min. epoxy temporarily so that it can be shaped and latter removed to glass the inside.

Took my time with this step using the template created from the drawings, starting to look good.

Access doors glassed on nose to get a perfect fit.

 Access door foam removed, nosed prepped. Glassing inside of doors then put back in place to cure.

Glassing inside of ballast access door. Placed back on nose to cure.

Nose access door inside glassed, will be placed back on nose to cure.

Nosed is glassed and doors weighted down into recessed openings to cure.

Used sand bags to weight down doors during nose glassing.

Nose top removed to make it easer to work on the rudder peddles and breaks.

Brake cylinder layout, Matco style. I used aluminum square stock to extend from F0 the mounting brackets are floxed and bid taped in place.

In this picture you can see the rudder peddles and the stainless steel forks that I purchased from Dale Rogers. I first saw this design on Brian DeFords Cozy. "The actuator is threaded onto the end of the Matco lay down master cylinder and has a slot wide enough for the rudder pedal to slide within. A bolt is inserted thru the actuator and thru a hole in the rudder pedal. As the pedal is compressed the bolt slides in a slot until it reaches the end of the slot. Once the bolt hits the end of the slot the master cylinder is then actuated by further pushing on the rudder pedal. The slot is designed to allow the rudders to be fully deflected at the end of the slot. The adjustable foot pegs can be seen in this view as well." (Brian DeFord Web)

The Matco master cylinders are now laying on their sides to make it easer to connect to the reservoir.

 With this set up I get more than the required peddle travel.

Glassed inside top of the nose, the two small foam block in each side of the opening is where the locking bars for the doors contact.

Nose re-attached with flox and bid tape inside and out.

Glassed the canard nose area with two ply of bid and flox corners all around. The dark green spots are the rudder peddle hard points.

I wanted to lock the nose access door rather then using screws as called for in the plans, here is what I came up with, works good.

Purchased two keyed alike barrel locks one for the nose and the second on will be used to open the cockpit.

Here is the locking mechanism I created for the main nose access door, showing the locked position. The aluminum bar extend to catch the underside of the nose compartment. 

In this picture the locking mechanism is in the open position, the bars retract in the 90 degree turn of the key, works real smooth and holds the doors down nice the tight.

Landing gear doors material outside glassed, the center line is where I will cut the doors apart after installed on the hinges.

Nose wheel doors with hinges glassed, removed excess foam for landing gear wheel and strut.

The spring on the right hand side is used to close the doors when the landing gear is retracted, got this idea from other buildings. Thanks

Two strips of ply wood floxed in place with 5 threaded aluminum slugs on each side.  Ends of door opening floxed and glassed.

Floxed doors in place weighted down.

Testing landing gear doors, the spring works great.

Wheel well installed with flox and bid.

Return spring mount for rudder peddle, one on each side.

Finished on to Chap. 16, 17 & 24 want to complete as much of the interior before it becomes impossible to lay the fuselage on its side.