Oil Heat

[Charles Davis]

I've been thinking about fan speed control too.

I thought of putting in a 3-way switch:  OFF - LO - HI

Another idea was to just have on/off.  You might regulate the heat by having a mechanical damper at the exhaust end of the scat tubing.

Another idea would be to find a solid state fan control (one using a transistor) rather than a resistor, that might weigh less.  I have not investigated this yet.

[Waiter]

If you use these dropping resistors.

These resistors get very hot. Auto manufactures sometimes place the resistors in the heater intake plenum. This provides sufficient cooling for the resistors.

Waiter

[GlennBob]

I can see that these resistors could get a little warm.  I can still hold it in my hand when it's on the slowest speed, but I think it would be a grand idea to put the resistors in the intake plenum to cool them.

Don,

I can't attach pictures here.  You'll have to send me an email so I can respond to you with pictures attached.

ezskyboy@hughes.net

Glennbob

P. S.  Just received my Trio autopilot today.  Yeehaw ! !   Am I tickled ! !

[GlennBob]

Change of plans.  

After buying a fuel valve to use as a shut off to turn off the cabin heat in the summer, . .the valve was very heavy.  I started to think about not switching at all and keeping the second cooler " in line "  all the time.  I thought about the fact that cars have their heater cores on all the time with hot water running through them, so I think I'll go with plan B and just plumb the oil cooler in line full time.  This will eliminate the possibility of disrupting the critical oil flow to the engine, and make the system a tad lighter.

What do you guys think about using aluminum tubing for the oil pressure to the forward oil cooler ?  Is it safe enough?  or should I use steel lines ?  I could stub the fittings through the firewall and use braided hose from there to the engine.

Glennbob

[Waiter]

I'm doing a short run from the firewall to the rear seat thigh support.

I'm still up in the air weather to use tube or hose.

Tube will work OK,  I use 5052-0 for the hydraulics on my landing gear, and it gets up to 1200 psi.

My only thoughts on tube is the surface heat, could reach 250 - 275 deg F If I do decide to use tube, I'll wrap it with something.

Two nice things about hose;

1) It does offer some insulating quantity so the outer surface may not be 250-275deg.

2) the hose fittings are pretty much fool proof.

I'm steering toward the tube, mainly because I can insulate it (it needs to travel right next to my sump tank)

Waiter

[GlennBob]

Waiter

Where can I get the tube ?   Spruce ?    Can I just flare the ends and use flare fittings ?

Glennbob

[Waiter]

I'm doing this from memory, and I have CRS, so double check!

1/4 tube = AN4
3/8 tube = AN6
1/2 tube = AN8

ACS, Wicks, all sell it. Make sure you get 5052.

You probably want 3/8 tube. 1/2 tube starts getting difficult to work with.

When you flare it, make sure your flare tool is correct. Most of the Automotive store "el Cheepo" are 45 deg. AN flares are 38 deg.

Check around I usually barrow a good one (most EAA chapters own one) or take my tubes over to the Toledo Aviation School and use theirs.

A couple things to watch for:

1) Debur, then sand the cut edges smooth with 120 paper. Any sharp edges will usually split when you do the flare.

2) After you get a perfect flare, cut it off and do it over again :-(

If your like me, you probably forgot to put the sleeve on, or put it on backwards, or put the sleeve on before the nut, or put the nut on backwards, etc, etc.

Please note that this ONLY happens on the flares that are absolutely "perfect".

Waiter

[GlennBob]

Been there, . .done that ! !    :lol:

[ezeguy440ez]

Try a bilge blower. I made my set up up in the nose I am building and SQ 2000 I have the room. I also have an oil pump that scavanges the oil at the 3 quart level. So when the pump is on it has heat to a standard heater core 94 GM the blower and the 2 way air valve I have a defrost function. anyway its low preasure. This particular system is to bulky for the longs but u can just use the blower and an oil cooler and the carb heat valve to dump the hot air over the side in the nose gear. That way you can run off the high preasure lines like waiter does. Have fun fly warm. Oh yes Also you can just pick up air from your heat muff put the blower in your hell hole and blow it up to the front through the largest scat you can wrangel in there the blower will circulate 150 cuft a minute so you will have to make a switch. A friend of mine rums this and it will drive you out and its light and easy to make. no high preasure oil lines running thru the fuselage.

[ezeguy440ez]

anyone got a good fan switch that will handle 10 amps high med low or any combo.
david

[GlennBob]

Ezguy,

I went to the junk yard and got a heater switch from a car. This works fine as long as you remember to get the resistors that go with the switch.  You must have the resistors.  All the switch does is select different paths for the power.  The reisistors actually slow the motor down.  I got one with three different levels of resistance so, . .with full high and off, . .I have 5 speeds.

Glennbob.

P. S.  Like Waiter said, . .you gotta watch the resistors. They get hot.  So . .like he said, . it's a good idea to put the resistors some place where they can be cooled like in the blower intake ! !

GB