Hangar Flying

Anybody out there have good info on changing over to a push-pull system for the throttle (and mixture)? I once observed a Varieze make a precautionary landing (1977 or 1978 @ Whiteman airpark in Los Angeles), due to a broken throttle cable ... the spring held it wide open, and the pilot made a World War One approach using the mags to modulate power. The pilot was Burt Rutan ... the spring worked, but I would rather not rely on it. I have removed the airbrake lever (gone to electric), but I do have the Long EZ style pitch trim lever in the way. I am thinking about putting the carb heat and mixture on push-pull in the panel, but would like to stay with throttle on a lever if possible. I have access to the side panels. Any ideas?

I think you should call on the gentleman who posted the "2000 ways not to buy". Sounds like that's the plane

You did the right thing in walking away and the money will haunt him to the grave and hopefully beyond. I had considered the same aircraft, but after a phone call or two, I didn't even get close to considering it. It looked like (and sounded like) junk, and apparently it is.

It's being sold by an airplane broker who, like all vehicles sales pros, tells it like you want to hear it and refers to "the numbers" published by others. It may very well be a good deal. Like all homebuilt purchases, approach with knowledge from an expert in construction and operation.
Look at the Q&A's on the ebay listing; "splitting hairs"isn't in the weight and balance section of the POH. Like all auction purchased items, you must buy it right with enough reserve to make it right if needed.

Both the B&C and the skytec lightweight starters have solenoids on the starter. Everything hinges on wether or not you plan to have a master solenoid for the elctrical system ... not necessary, but not wise to have hot wires running the distance from the battery to the panel when everything is shut down. Look at the way production aircraft are wired; master solenoid, starter solenoid (remote), master switch, and in most cases a electronics master switch. Starters that fail and continue running after a start have resulted in smoked wires (no circuit breaker on the starter cable!), electrical fires, ruined starters, damaged engines, and AD notes! The "extra" solenoid is a good safety feature, and without going into a two page diatribe, insures maximum voltage to the starter mounted solenoid which results in a "cleaner more positive" engagement of the starter mechanism. Skytec has the wiring diagrams on their website. Skytec is permanent magnet, and B&C is not ... another debate!
Ask someone who worked on cars from the 50's and 60's; GM used the starter mounted solenoid, and Ford used a remote solenoid to energize the starter mounted solenoid ... We added the solenoid to GM cars when the long wire runs from the switch got old and weak (or the battery a little low) resulting in poor or no starter engagement. GM would sell you a new starter (which would work while fresh and new), but we would add a $2.00 solenoid and a length of wire for a permanent fix.

Where can I get plans for the roncz canard and the hidden rudder bellhorns?

It's "Bounce" in AU also! Good for cleaning burned pots, and maybe a musquito repellant too. I use them in the airplane while in the hangar to keep varmints away ... spiders, mice, wasps, etc. Just toss a couple on the floor or in the baggage door, or in the tail cone, or under the panel ... has worked for me for years; must be some nasty stuff! Now I'll try it as a wing cleaner!

Autolite 386 for sure, and I think the Champion d-16 is the cross reference.
As for the post that Klauss said the mag put out more?? I thought it was just the opposite, hence the larger plug gap on the electronic. I do know that the mags run on race cars put out a hot spark at high rpm.