cabin heat

[Drew]

In my Cozy, I am getting real good heat coming up front----even with the cabin vents opened up.  For what it is worth, my nose gear, elevator tubes, and canard are sealed up very well.

The muff I am using is the standard Cozy muff-----wraps around the two pipes on the right side and pumps out more than adequate heat

[davidschuck]

Take a look at this and let me know what you think of it.  I came across it while out shopping and thought of this thread.  It's a very small heater designed for the rear seat of a car.  It's 12V and uses 120 watts.  I'm not sure if it will work for all, but if you're running an alternator you may have the capacity.  Like I said, let me know your thoughts.

[/url]http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36711

[Drew]

I tried something very much like that in my Longez.  Made too much electrical noise.  You can probably figure out ways to filter it out though.  For the most part, I was looking for a way to keep my wife warm in the back seat.  In the end, I used a 12 volt electric blanket (car blanket) that did pretty good.

[davidschuck]

Drew,
Did you use the factory supplied wiring or did you attempt to rewire it with something shielded.  I'm just curious if you tried anything to eliminate the noise, and I assume you meant radio noise.  I think I'll try it this weekend with shielded wire.  I'll attempt a before and after.  I'll post what I find.  BTW How does the 10 amps that this draws compare to the heated blankets, gloves, socks and other devices everyone has used.

[Drew]

I had a cig lighter socket in the backseat without shielded wire.  Plugged in the as bought heater into the socket.  Radio noise is what I was talking about.  My wife was fine with the blanket.  I have seen many others talk good about the heated clothes.  For me, as long as my feet were warm, I was pretty good.  I usually used the chemical inserts that you put in your shoes.

[N210GW]

I installed an electric heater using the guts from a 12V automotive unit. It puts out about 400 Watts. To prevent the electrical noise I used a aircraft quality EGG rotron vane axial fan. The fan that comes with the unit would need to be filtered. As far as performance 400 watts doesn't go very far. It will keep my feet from freezing but that's about it. I will probably replace it with a good muff heat system if I can work out the flow problems.

[Kilo42]

OK, here's what I got planned.  I read something about this in the archives.  For some reason the archives are not working on my computer right now.  Anyway, I am going to mount an inline duct blower at the end of my heater exhaust tube in the nose.  Here is a link to the duct blower:

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_prod_id=59,7,363_73&action=product

It's a 3" blower that I will mount to the side of the fuselage and I will fit a tapered end to fit onto the heater duct.  The blower will be located below my right leg.  I then plan on installing a variable speed switch on my instrument panel to control fan speed and therefore heat output.  This will also allow for a heated cabin while taxiing.  

Hopefully this will succesfully "PULL" heated air foward into the cabin.

I will report to the board as the project unfolds.



Kilo42
Long-Ez N81HM

[Glider pilot]

Let us know how it worked or did not. I tried one with almost no improvement in air flow. that blower can't have any restriction or it stops blowing. I don't think you will need to very the speed try it before you install  the switch. If you want a blower I'll send you one  for free, that how good it worked.

[maprather]

I wouldn't bother with the speed controller until you have determined effectiveness at the full-bore setting.  Just use a toggle switch to see if it works in flight, and on cold days.  Worst case scenario is that you can toggle the switch off and on as you get too cold/hot..