Show Posts - av-mech

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - av-mech

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 7
31
Hangar Flying / Re: Trailing Edge Fences.......WOW
« on: October 11, 2011, 02:08:10 PM »
Joe,

I think, based on my recent research on the subject that the TE fences became known as mandatory on Long's because Klaus had said as much.  I know that I have read commentary on his messing about with them on a long and saying "yes" to them.  At the moment I cannont quote/remember my source but will keep looking.  Having read many of the CP's lately I have not seen them listed as required equipment on the Long's.  As most of us are aware, if Klaus is doing it it's probably a good idea.

32
Hangar Flying / Re: Alternator for the O-235
« on: September 30, 2011, 10:56:21 AM »
Stan,

http://www.caeitalia.com/Allegati/1154M%20SL.pdf

Check this link to go to Lycoming Service Instruction No. 1154.  This document shows what alternator the manufacturer has approved for installation.  Though you may find others that will work, this will at least tell you what WILL work.

33
Hangar Flying / Re: Alternator for the O-235
« on: September 30, 2011, 10:19:07 AM »
Stan,

Can you please tell me what model of O-235 you have, will be shown on data plate (if it's still on engine)

34
Hangar Flying / Re: electrial diagram
« on: September 27, 2011, 03:54:54 PM »
Joe,

You hit the nail on the head where you wrote

"If you don't have the wherewithall to look up the specs and requirements"

I would have ended that with "then you should not be building an airplane!" 

There is no black magic or special skill needed to build most any airplane but you need to stay away from guess work and listening to those who spout useless nonesense.  Precision and facts are rewarded with safety and a long life.

35
Hangar Flying / Trailing Edge Fences.......WOW
« on: September 24, 2011, 02:21:11 PM »
I had not found time to install the TE fences until this week.  I have flown my VEZ 57 hours since early July and was getting used to how it handled (and did not handle).  After a little scare going into Orlando Exec last week and running out of left aileron during a direct crosswind I decided to get it done. 

I flew them this morning on a group flight to X60 for some lunch.  WOW is all I can say.  Those fences changed my approach and landing speeds by 10 kts, no kidding.  I went from coming over the fence at 75 kts to something closer to 65 and the solid feeling the ailerons had all the way to touchdown was something I had not had previously.  Big difference, no wonder people who have them love them.  I had no decrease in top speed (currently about 170 mph) and I did not really sense that the ailerons were any different at top speed but I did notice that I had to run a little more nose down trim.  This may be a fluke but it also seemed like the prop noise went down a bit.  I can't really put my finger on that one but it was quiter in the cockpit than before the fences.

36
Hangar Flying / Re: electrial diagram
« on: September 19, 2011, 12:14:34 PM »
Stan,

Agreed, I have all of my (two) coax wires running down the left side and all of the other power, siganl,ground wires in a bundle running down the right side.  I only use shielded wire where the manufacturer calls for it.  Otherwise I use MIL-W-22759/16/xx (the xx is your wire size).  Your shielded wire is MIL-C-27500-xx (again wire size).  For coax you can use RG-58 as a last resort but you will be doing good to use RG-400 instead.  It's a little more but worth it in terms of quality.

When you order wire, most likely you will use lot's of 18-20 or 22 gauge wire for insturments, radios, engine sensors, solenoids etc....I would recommend ordering at least 300 ft of the sizes you need most.  My guess would be the 20 and 22 gauge.  You always need more than you think.  See if you can talk Aircraft Spruce into a dealer account and you will get some discounts when you order.

Ring terminals = MS25036-xx     buy the correct crimper to do the job
 red base collars are for 18-22 ga wire
 Blue base collars are for 14-16 ga


37
Hangar Flying / Re: electrial diagram
« on: September 19, 2011, 07:20:45 AM »
Stan,

Stick to what you read in the book, it will serve you far better than anything else.

38
Hangar Flying / Re: electrial diagram
« on: September 18, 2011, 07:01:53 AM »
Stan,

I don't haved a set of Long manuals but if they are like the Vari then there is a basic (suggested) wiring diagram.  Problem is that you don't have any idea if the builder did it that way or not.  Maybe he did, maybe he did not.  Of course if you had a diagram you could at least see if anything is as the original intenet. 

Come on Long flyers let's help Stan out.  Remember when you were looking for answers.........

39
Hangar Flying / Re: UV blocking primer
« on: September 17, 2011, 08:50:13 PM »
For painting, use a good charcoal filter mask at least.  If you can get a positive pressure air mask all the better.  I use both depending on the size of the job.  If just shooting a fairing or something small I usually just throw on the filter mask.  If shooting a fuselage or wing than it's full poopy suit and pressure mask.  For painting the repair area I tend to use more light coats rather than less heavy coats.  The location of the touch up will determine wether you need to mask it off or just feather it in.  I shoot using an HVLP gun set at about 30 psi and I usually feather in a touch up, wait for it to cure and come back with some 800 the 1000 wet/dry on a block.  Block the sprayed area and then come back with a buffer and some "Wizards turbo cut".  Be very careful with the buffer, it can generate a lot of localized heat if your not careful which can lead to delamination of the glass from the foam.  Generally, and I do mean generally these techniques work well for me in my shop.  Others will do things differently, others will use different products and that's all fine.  I only offer this advice as what works for me.  Good luck.

40
Hangar Flying / Re: UV blocking primer
« on: September 17, 2011, 08:42:14 PM »
PT. 3  :D

Once you are satisfied that you have either applied enough primer so that you don't need anymore to hide your edges, (or you need another coat), switch to wet/dry 400 on a block.  Start sanding with the 400 and keep it wet all the time.  I use a spray bottle with water in it and spray every 7-10 strokes to wash the grit away.  You should not have to do much sanding really to get this kind of repair done.  If you are only trying to fill in where paint was removed then I tend to stay away from any type of body filler, wether it be bondo or micro.  If it's deeper than the thickness of the paint layer than you may need a quick swipe of filler.  I would suggest that you take the time to use micro.  It sands well and is a better match with the base material in terms of thermal expeansion and contraction rates.  Bondo is a polyester based product and although tends to work, is not as good a match technically speaking.

When satisfied with your wet sanding, run a sheet of water across the repair area, when you remove the water source you will see what the surface is going to look like with paint on it.  The water sheen is a pretty good indicator of surface quality.  There are no "safe" paints but with todays technology almost any good quality ureathane based paint will adhere to your imron, so if you can get a good color match just use the brand that works best.  I recommend R&M "uno", for solid colors it's hard to beat.  Again, there are many great products, that's just one that works well for me.

41
Hangar Flying / Re: UV blocking primer
« on: September 17, 2011, 08:33:10 PM »
PT 2.

Other primers would be dupont 131S or WLS epoxy primer that Lancair sells.  None of these will be "cheap" but for the Corlar 2.1 (Dupont) runs about $100.00 for a kit.  The mix ratio is 2:1 but again for some stupid reason they only sell the kit in two gallon cans. (1 gallon part a and one gallon part b)  You end up throwing .5 gallon part b away.  I have complained about this but Dupont seems to not be interested in taking my calls......  There are certainly other good primers out there but I have had the best luck with these brands.  I have used the Corlar way more than the WLS and the 131S only in a pinch.  You must have the reducer for the Corlar so don't forget that, it has to be thinned for spraying. 

Shoot a couple of heavy coats on your repair area, give time between coats for each one to tack off.  No need to shoot so hard that you run it.  Give it overnight to cure.  After cure, remove tape and masking paper and set up some 320 on a sanding block.  Before sanding, spray a light coat of black lacquer spray bomb on the primered area, just a light dusting.  This is a guide coat so you can see whats happening while you sand.  give it about 15 min to dry and start blocking.  Don't use Krylon or similar for guide coat, when you buy your good primer at the paint shop ask them for a spray can of guide coat, they know what you need.  Block sand with the 320 just enough to level your primered area.

42
Hangar Flying / Re: UV blocking primer
« on: September 17, 2011, 08:21:50 PM »
Kevin,

I agree with the above posts but will additionally add an answer to your question.  It will be hard to find a high quality primer that is sold in quarts.  I would never say never but I have not been able to buy good quality primers in quart sizes ever.  Paints yes, primers no.  Don't ask why because I have no idea why they do that. 

For your repair, it's not too hard.  Using an appropriate tool like a plastic scraper or something similar, gently chip off the bubbles until you get it back to an edge where it is no longer bubbled or lifting.  start with some 180 sand paper and sand the edges where paint meets primer until you get something of a feathered edge, don't worry about sanding it super smooth yet.  you should also prep sand the painted area around the chipped edges for about 1 inch all around.  Tape off the area just a smidge beyond where you have sanded the paint.  Just use a good quality masking tape at this point.  Vacuum the area or at least blow it off and wipe down with Prep-Sol or some other similar wax and grease remover.  Do not use aggressive solvents because it may seep through pinholes in the laminate and melt your foam, depending on where the repair area is.  Next, Shoot primer predominatly in the area where the bubble was and only lightly where the paint is.  I use Corlar 2.1 primer, its an epoxy based primer that sands really well after curing.

43
Hangar Flying / Re: electrial diagram
« on: September 17, 2011, 08:09:55 PM »
Stan,

If electrical is not your thing than I would take the offer for professional help.  I have been working with all types of experimental aircraft for more than 20 years and I can tell you that when you don't have any kind of wiring diagram, you might as well tear it all out and start from scratch.  You will drive yourself nuts trying to get it all sorted out.  On the plus side....EZ electrical systems are not usually to difficult.

44
Hangar Flying / Re: in flight ez pictures
« on: September 15, 2011, 07:06:40 AM »
I would have to agree with that.  Although I did not collect any flight data pre or post spinner, I cannot really seem to sense any difference with or without.  One positive would be that it did remove some weight from the plane.

I would take Burts word by default over anyone else concerning the plane but I wonder what Klaus has to say since he sells spinners?  I'm sure he would tell you that it's a neccesary item, and maybe it is at the speeds he is flying.

45
Hangar Flying / Re: Replacing LONG instrument panel
« on: September 14, 2011, 02:06:55 PM »
I agree with Steve, the picture of my panel was taken a few weeks before I actuallyh flew the airplane for the first time and there was still some work to do.  Look closely at the machine screws (and empty holes for screws) around the perimeter of my aluminum panel and that will give you an idea of how much of the composite structure I left in place.  Although I did mention that I try to find things to take out.......structure is not one of them!

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 7