Hangar Flying

I'm not terribly qualified to answer from experience.  I first trailered my Long about one mile to the airport for the first flight.  The next time was a few miles to/from a couple of paint shops.  I did not tilt the fuselage to gain legal width for the highways involved. I received no grief from the local law enforcement folks.  I've heard of several that have said the same.  If you encounter problems in route, beg for forgiveness.  It will probably be the least of your worries.  Let us know how it goes if you decide to purchase the project if you care to.

I enjoyed my trip again as always.  It was great seeing old friends and making new ones.

I did not like the Chalets or the cancelling of the AirVenture Cup race.  The dishonesty about the cancellation of the race was disgusting.  EAA cancelled the race then 2 weeks later, the EAA President Hightower was on television and internet news with an AT-6 at the Reno Air Races Pylon Racing School with EAA logos on the tail of the airplane, and EAA logos prominently displayed in related photo and video media.  EAA needs to change and that's up to us, the members to make that happen.
 

I started with Safe-T-Poxy and transitioned to EZ-Poxy (supposedly the same formula), mostly because I was sure that it was tried and proven and worked for me.   I can't speak about the other epoxies.  It will be tough to find an epoxy with a better record on structural properties and tolerance of different fuels.  Tried and proven is good...

What do you think I should do to keep temps down in climb?
Easyrider

Do you have a diffusor?  When you run your hand along the NACA as it enters the cowling, you should feel a smooth surface that expands into the cowling.  There should be little or no abrupt changes, only smooth expanding curves entering the cowl.

You have to seal as much of the leaks in you baffling as possible.  You want as few paths for the air as possible that don't go through cooling fins or oil cooler or into the engine induction system.

Your cylinder baffles need to wrap around the cylinders, such that the air has to go into a small area at the bottom of the cylinders and follow the cooling fins around the cylinders to a slightly larger area at the top.  The best way I know how to do this is with the silicone/bid baffles.  They are wrapped around the cylinders, touching the ends of the cooling fins, forcing the air to travel from the bottom of the cylinders to the top before being released.  If there are any gaps between your baffles that wrap around the cylinders and the ends of the cooling fins, the air will go through the gaps and not cool the fins.

I have the Herb Sanders, Sport Flight NACA inlet that is about 3" x 15".  It is larger than I need for my O-235 and if I would improve my #4 cooling, I could go to a smaller inlet and pick up a little more speed.  Some day....

One thing that I don't hear discussed much is the affect of drag reduction on engine cooling.  Anything that you do to decrease drag, increases engine cooling.  If the engine puts out X amount of HP, and you get Y airspeed, you will get Z CHTs.  If you decrease the drag, such that you get more than Y airspeed at the same X HP, that provides more cooling air with the same amount of heating from the engine.
Put well designed gear leg fairings on, change from football pants to pressure recovery (Klaus/CSA), seal your canopy/airframe leaks, etc.  It all adds up to more cooling airspeed for the same engine power/BTUs, which results in lower CHTs.

With this approach, I'm able to climb continuously as high as I care to at 125 MPH indicated, with no more than 375 F CHT on my hottest cylinder (#4).  When I race at WOT and low altitude, I am able to keep the cylinders no higher than 375 F also.  My cylinder temps are terribly unbalanced and are nowhere near your 20 degree spread.

The updraft works fine and I don't think I'll ever change mine, BUT I don't like that the air has to go by the hot headers first to get to the cylinders and the CHT probes are on the cool side of the cylinder.  If I had it to do again, I'd probably go down draft.

I have to agree with Easyrider.  The CS prop will hurt your mission unless you have to have it for the shorter runways.  I too fly a Long with the 125 HP O-235.  I get similar efficiency at lower altitudes.  If I'm able to go up high (17.5K') I can get 3.8 GPH at 145 KTS.  That's well over a 2000 (statute) mile range.

The 350iS sounds very interesting, but I don't know anything about it.  I'd love to have a few more HP especially if it is a more efficient engine.

A properly designed CF Long would probably be great.  I wouldn't consider trying to substitute the CF for glass unless I was a trained Composite Engineer.  It's just not as simple as swapping materials.  Maybe you already know that and are qualified.  In that case, carry on....

Fully retractable gear won't help your speed much, if at all, and will definately hurt your pocket book, gross weight, build time, and fuel capacity.  A fully retractable Long EZ with an O-320 beat me less than 3 MPH in the only race I've had against one - http://www.sportairrace.org/id243.html

I believe the way to think of it is that the dues are for the information in the newsletter.  The newsletter is a great source of information for all, whether they are newbies or veterans.  The photos here on www.ez.org are the icing on the cake.  Think of them as just that.  You get the benefit of the collective wisdom that contributes to the CSA newsletter for the price of the CSA subscription.  It's certainly worth more than that to me as a founding member (rember Arnie Ash?) I too wish there were captions included.

Jo Hunter took a bunch of great photos of the event - http://futurshox.net/aeroview.php?level=image&id=14499