Sounds like you got a handle on it, but let me throw this out just for info.
1) A properly trimmed and rigged LongEZ will require left trim (The plane will try and turn right if the trim is set at neutral on the ground). The torque of the prop does this. Look at a group of EZs that are parked, you'll notice the left aileron is up a little and the right aileron is down.
2) Differences in the wings angle of attack (one higher than the other) OR, sweep angle can also cause this (one wing at a different sweep angle than the other)
You can check the wing sweep with a tape measure. Use the measurements that are shown in the POH under the W&B stuff.
As for angle of attack. This will require a little more care, but can be done.
One quick and easy way to verify the wings are correct in relation to each other:
a) Level the plane in pitch and roll.
b) You need a 24 inch (or greater) bubble level, a 12 - 18 inch piece of string with a weight on the end (bolt or nut), and a short piece of 2x4 (4 to 6 inches long)
c) position the level on the aft part of the wing. Tape the string to one end of the level (draping over the side edge). We'll use the string to line up the aft end of the level with the inboard gap of the aileron. (The wing trailing edge where the aileron cutout starts.)
Line up the forward end of the level with the gap between the wing and the strake.
d) Slide the 2x4 between the aft end of the level and the trailing edge of the wing. Slide the 2x4 for /aft until the bubble indicates level.
Re-verify the string is lined up with the aileron gap, and the forward part of the level is line up with the strake gap.
This is important as we'll use these same reference points when setting up to read the other wing.
e) Now, measure the vertical distance between the wing trailing edge and the bottom of the level. (our string should hanging down at this position)
Recheck everything, pitch, roll, string, strake, etc.
Measure the other wing exactly the same.
If the two measurements are not the same, the wing with the larger reading has a higher angle of attack.
You can do minor changes by add or subtract shims at either the Top or the Bottom outboard bolts, depending whicjh way you need to go.
DO NOT let the wing support itself with bolts loose or missing, This places twisting forces on the bolts and hardpoints, These are not designed for these type of loads.
Use crates, boxes, anything to support the wing at the winglet, A couple small tires or something so the wing cannot twist.
1) loosten all bolts and slide the wing back 1/8 to 1/4 inch. just enough so you can see the bolt through the gap between the strake and the wing.
2) Get an accurate count as to how many washers (thick or thin) that are currently in place.
3) take the nut off the bolt and push the bolt back carefully, you may need to rock the wing a little to get the bolt to move.
If the bolts will slid freely, you can reach in the gap and slide the bolt with the blade.
Slide the bolt back just far enouh so you can insert another washer.
Use a thin piece of masking tape about 6 inches long. stick the washer to one end of the tape so its just barely on the flat of he washer. Then lower the washer into position on the bolt. Don't pull the tape off until you slide the bolt back into position.
When you snug the bolts up, always start with the outboard upper first.
do it in a couple steps, i.e. finger tight all the bolts, the go back and snug all the bolts, thn go back and tighten all the bolts.
Good Luck
Waiter
