CHT & Oil temps data

[Lowlevldevl]

Hey guys,
Thought you might be interested in hearing about my new engine monitor installation. I finally got it fitted 2 days ago. (Started before Christmas)
I got the fuel flow, oil temp, carby temp and memory stick data options with mine. By the way my Long has an 0-320 Lycoming.
Original equipment is a JPI slimline oil temp gauge which usually showed fairly high temps, I fly in the tropics and only have a smallish oil cooler. The new EDM-700 oil temp shows around 10 degrees hotter than the slimline. A test flight today saw 262F. Looks like I'm due for a bigger cooler :cry:
No. 1 cylinder is the hottest and touched 470F today on the same test flight. The original CHT probe was a gasket type on No.2 and showed mid range. I have to conclude that my real temps have always been much higher than I thought so I achieved my aim of better understanding whats going on with my powerplant because I have the engine analyzer. What to do about #1 CHT now?
The memory stick option is great. I downloaded the last couple of test flights and analyzed em in EZ Trends (JPI) and I can see exactly what my engine was doing the whole time. Interesting! I got some crap under the needle valve during my first test flight so the float valve wasn't sealing, the carb flooded and the engine flamed out when I pulled the power on base. It all shows on the graph and I  see it took me about 25 secs to recognize it, restart and make it back to the field.
Apart from downdraught cooling, anybody have any suggestions as to how to fix the high temps on No.1?
Cheers.

[Drew]

I assume that you are now using CHT probes that attach to the CHT boss---and that they are the ones the Engine Monitor manufacturer recommends.

470 is way too hot for cruise.  You did not say how hot the other ones were.  If the other ones are way too cold, then it is a simple matter of stealing some flow from the way too cool ones and redirecting to the way too hot one.  If you can't spare trading some heat (raising the temps of the others to bring down the hot one), then you probably have a lot of air leaks.

Assuming that you have a standard size NACA inlet duct and a fairly normal exit opening, you may have problems with your baffles.  You need to make sure everything seals.  Look around the cylinders--all the air should channel thru the fins.  If the metal baffles are pulling away, then you need to fix it.  There is a lot of reading material that shows how much of the cylinder needs to be covered (entrance and exit openings).  Wait until after dark to look at the baffle sealing.  Put a light under the cowl and look for light leaks---fix all those problems.  Do it with both cowls on----and then one at a time.  Check around the alternator and starter (and of course if you have downdraft, you don't have to check around the alternator and starter----     )

Also pay attention to any wiring, ducting, etc that you have running underneath the cylinders.  If you have a lot of junk in the way, air is going to have a hard time making it through any rats nest you may have down there.