Hangar Flying

Check out the HID (high intensity discharge / xenon) lights being sold very competitively on the internet.

The HIDs have twice the brightness for 2/3 the wattage and heat. They do require a small ballast, but last twice as long as the halogen bulbs.

They come in all sizes, pretty much a plug and play setup, except for finding a place for the ballast.

The EI probes are Type K (Chromel-Alumel).
Temperature range is -450°F to +2500°F.
The closest generic product could be found at Omega.com with the ~ following specs:

Type K
1/8 dia (or whatever)
ungrounded
sheathed/closed tip
stainless
specify length (3")

The bigger the diameter, the slower the response time.
The smaller the diameter, the lower the life expectancy in hot gas.

When you hook it up you have to make sure you connect chromel lead to chromel lead, and likewise for the alumel leads (I think no risk of damaging anything if they are reversed, just bad data - check with EI).

Regular connectors can be used for high temp applications like EGT/CHT. For low temperature ranges like inlet air or OAT, the special type K connectors are needed, which essentially are spade connecters made out of the chromel and alumel materials.

The thermocouple junction basically makes a voltage potential based on the temperature of the junction. It's like a little battery which is near zero voltage when cold, and goes up to a maximum of about 50 millivolts when its super hot. The EI instrument just reads the voltage and converts to a number using a curve fit for Type K.

For a really low cost probe (thermocouple junction), just twist and crimp (not solder) the chromel and alumel wires together. They will generate a precise voltage based on the temperature of the junction where they first come into contact.

A little more research shows there are some gascolators rated for pressurization. Aircraft Spruce sells the Andair Mini Gascolator for $130 wich is pressure rated, and it looks like a nice unit.

The people at Petersen Avation have a STC for the PA28 (Piper Cherokee) which specifically pressurizes the gascolator to mitigate vapor lock.

Looks like Delta Mike needs to get a pressure rated gascolator.

The prop is a factor in how much static RPM can be developed.

My 253-C2C was not able to get past 2250 static at Durango field elevation ~7000 ft. I was advised it was not suitable for flight until it could make at least 2400 static.

In pursuit of 2400 static, mag was overhauled, new plugs all around, checked leads with high tension testser, adjusted valve clearance, adjusted timing to 27° BTDC, installed direct ram air intake, installed Lightspeed electronic ignition - all of this got me to 2260 static.

Finally the cylinders were removed for repair, since one was leaking on the intake during compression check. It turned out all of the intakes were leaking, which unbalances the intake flow at the high end resulting in power loss.

Since the cylinders are off, it is not too much to put new pistons (like a L2C) to make the compression 8.5:1 from 6.7:1.

I have yet to run the repaired engine, but I sure expect it to get up to 2400 static.

Firewall Fuel Routing:

Put the inline filter in the hell-hole using standard automotive fuel filter, cheap and easy to replace – the 3/8 ID low pressure rubber fuel hoses make for easy connection to 3/8 aluminum fuel lines. This filters any particles before they get to the electric pump.

Through the firewall using straight pipe which connects to rubber fuel line on downstream side of fuel filter. Turn it on the firewall side with a 90 fitting, preferably one that will connect directly to the electric fuel pump.

The electric fuel (boost) pump is the first in line. The CPs have some discussion on the right boost pump to use.

Use a back to back short-as-possible female coupling to go directly from the boost pump to the gascolator. The fellows at Peterson Aviation (http://webworksltd.com/autofuelstc/pa/PetersenAviation.html) specialize in approved STC autofuel conversion for certified airplanes. Their words of wisdom is that it is better to have the gascolator downstream of the boost pump since most vapor lock happens in the gascolator. The gascolator is pressurized (only) when the boost pump is on, typically during take off and landing - when vapor lock is least appreciated.

The gascolator is next in line, but needs some modification before installation. First, take of that silly drain cock that has to be reached up into the NACA scoop for access (not to mention it is sticking down in the cooling and intake air flow). Put on a quarter inch fitting and route a short line to a flush mounted drain somewhere on the outer skin. Next mod to the gascolator before installation: Thread the electric solenoid valve directly into the top of the gascolator using a simple pipe to pipe fitting (assuming the gascolator has a prime port on the top). Rotate it so that alignment is good for firewall installation of the gascolator (make sure to use fuel lube on pipe threads). The gascolator-electric primer is now like one unit. The prime line can now be routed directly to the primer manifold and ports.

From the gascolator outlet use a flexible steel braided fuel line to go directly to the engine driven fuel pump inlet. This line isolates the engine vibration from the firewall components. Make sure the line has plenty of clearance from the engine mount or anywhere else, else holes will be rubbed.

Use a rigid or flexible line to go directly from the mechanical pump outlet to the carb inlet. The fuel pressure sensor should be teed in at the carb inlet. Fuel pressure should be sensed at the inlet to the carb so that mechanical pump pressure can be sensed when the boost pump is off. It also provides the best true carb fuel inlet pressure at this point. Try to keep the sensor as close into the carb as possible so that it is not sticking out and disrupting the cylinder cooling air flow.

If an Ellison TBI is to be installed, the plug at the opposite end of the fuel inlet may be tapped with a quarter pipe thread. Screw the fuel pressure sender directly into the tapped plug and the tee arrangement is not needed at the inlet side. Figure out how to put a fine mesh screen in this mod since access on the plug side is unfiltered.

Try to do a system check before installation, make sure all components are fuel tight under pressure. Check for even flow from all the primer lines.

If all else fails call Bob the Plumber.

Waiter of course has the more sensible approach, however, there are more maverick measures that can be employed.

When Delta Mike got the bug he tried going to the bank and was stumped by interest and insurance rates - not to mention the associated paperwork.

Going on-line, he just started filling out applications for 0% interest credit cards (12 month introductory offers), and voila, within a few weeks there was $40K in credit line ready to be spent. The trick is writing the balance transfer checks for the full amounts since they charge 3% or $150 max for balance transfers.

Now of course the credit cards need to be paid down before they kick into the 35% interest rates. The plan is to have flown the newly acquired Long enough by the end of the 12 months to qualify for lower insurance rates, which can then be used to get a better bank loan to pay whatever is left of the credit card premiums. The bank is much easier to deal with when the asset is a flying in-annual in-hand aircraft, versus a prospective unknown aircraft.

One more thing. It is not difficult to set oneself up as a small business. Make a business case that requires commuting to remote spots on short and variable notice. Naturally, you may purchase a business vehicle for the purpose of commuting, or doing aerial photography, etc. The cost of purchasing that business vehicle, as well as vehicle operating costs, are all deductible against the business net income.

Best Wishes,
Delta Mike

Hi Britguy,

I was in your position a few months ago, with the difference that I needed a flying machine. I set my goals on the VariEze for thier affordability, but it was an eye-opener to finally sit in one. It was quite tight for my 6-1 / 185lbs frame. One has to wear these canards, and the Vari is a tight fit.

I have a Long-EZ now, more expensive, more systems, and definetly more roomy and suited to my flying and traveling needs. I sure would like to have a Vari someday to hot-rod around the local area, but the Long in Long-EZ is very descriptive of its touring capabilities.