B&C starter question

[Charles Davis]

Stupid question, but the starter is miles away and there is some ambiguity here.

I'm building a NEW Long EZ, so I can wire it any way I want.

Some information I have is that the B&C Lycoming starter has a starter solenoid built in, so I have to do is run a #4 +12V to the starter and wire the start spring loaded switch to it.

Other information shows I need a separate starter solenoid mounted on the firewall.

Thanks for the help.  I hope to have our first flight this Dec.

[Juan Rivera]

I have a B&C Starter and am using a starter solenoid.  Adding a starter after four years of hand starting was the first, best thing that I added to my airplane.

[eric r]

Both the B&C and the skytec lightweight starters have solenoids on the starter. Everything hinges on wether or not you plan to have a master solenoid for the elctrical system ... not necessary, but not wise to have hot wires running the distance from the battery to the panel when everything is shut down. Look at the way production aircraft are wired; master solenoid, starter solenoid (remote), master switch, and in most cases a electronics master switch. Starters that fail and continue running after a start have resulted in smoked wires (no circuit breaker on the starter cable!), electrical fires, ruined starters, damaged engines, and AD notes! The "extra" solenoid is a good safety feature, and without going into a two page diatribe, insures maximum voltage to the starter mounted solenoid which results in a "cleaner more positive" engagement of the starter mechanism. Skytec has the wiring diagrams on their website. Skytec is permanent magnet, and B&C is not ... another debate!
Ask someone who worked on cars from the 50's and 60's; GM used the starter mounted solenoid, and Ford used a remote solenoid to energize the starter mounted solenoid ... We added the solenoid to GM cars when the long wire runs from the switch got old and weak (or the battery a little low) resulting in poor or no starter engagement. GM would sell you a new starter (which would work while fresh and new), but we would add a $2.00 solenoid and a length of wire for a permanent fix.

[Charles Davis]

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Here is an email I received from B&C.

BTW: I have a B&C starter, alternator, and spin on oil filter adapter.  This is all extremely well built equipment.  Their tech support, service, and customer relations are also top notch.  I highly recommend this company.



From B&C Regarding Starter Installation:

You do need to use a starter relay (solenoid) with a B&C starter. The solenoid on the starter is used for pinion extension and closing the motor contacts. There are two parallel coils in the solenoid, which are both energized during the pinion extension process. The inrush current of these two coils is on the order of 30 Amps and will damage any pushbutton or key-switch.

 

There are also a couple of other good reasons for including the relay: One, if you don’t use a starter relay and the solenoid on the starter sticks, the starter will run-on after the push button or key switch is released, and two, if a starter relay is not used, the starter cable is “hot” all of the time, not just during cranking. If you were to have an unexpected landing incident, you would have a large gage, unprotected, “hot”, conductor in the engine compartment to generate electrical arcs around possible oil or fuel spills.

You’ll notice when you see your starter that there is a short jumper between starter input post and a blade contact for the solenoid. The solenoid does not require a ground on this post, but rather power to be energized. The solenoid coils are grounded internally. When the starter relay applies power to the starter, the solenoid is energized through this jumper.

I recommend using the relay.

Tim Hedding