Firewall Fuel Routing:
Put the inline filter in the hell-hole using standard automotive fuel filter, cheap and easy to replace – the 3/8 ID low pressure rubber fuel hoses make for easy connection to 3/8 aluminum fuel lines. This filters any particles before they get to the electric pump.
Through the firewall using straight pipe which connects to rubber fuel line on downstream side of fuel filter. Turn it on the firewall side with a 90 fitting, preferably one that will connect directly to the electric fuel pump.
The electric fuel (boost) pump is the first in line. The CPs have some discussion on the right boost pump to use.
Use a back to back short-as-possible female coupling to go directly from the boost pump to the gascolator. The fellows at Peterson Aviation (
http://webworksltd.com/autofuelstc/pa/PetersenAviation.html) specialize in approved STC autofuel conversion for certified airplanes. Their words of wisdom is that it is better to have the gascolator downstream of the boost pump since most vapor lock happens in the gascolator. The gascolator is pressurized (only) when the boost pump is on, typically during take off and landing - when vapor lock is least appreciated.
The gascolator is next in line, but needs some modification before installation. First, take of that silly drain cock that has to be reached up into the NACA scoop for access (not to mention it is sticking down in the cooling and intake air flow). Put on a quarter inch fitting and route a short line to a flush mounted drain somewhere on the outer skin. Next mod to the gascolator before installation: Thread the electric solenoid valve directly into the top of the gascolator using a simple pipe to pipe fitting (assuming the gascolator has a prime port on the top). Rotate it so that alignment is good for firewall installation of the gascolator (make sure to use fuel lube on pipe threads). The gascolator-electric primer is now like one unit. The prime line can now be routed directly to the primer manifold and ports.
From the gascolator outlet use a flexible steel braided fuel line to go directly to the engine driven fuel pump inlet. This line isolates the engine vibration from the firewall components. Make sure the line has plenty of clearance from the engine mount or anywhere else, else holes will be rubbed.
Use a rigid or flexible line to go directly from the mechanical pump outlet to the carb inlet. The fuel pressure sensor should be teed in at the carb inlet. Fuel pressure should be sensed at the inlet to the carb so that mechanical pump pressure can be sensed when the boost pump is off. It also provides the best true carb fuel inlet pressure at this point. Try to keep the sensor as close into the carb as possible so that it is not sticking out and disrupting the cylinder cooling air flow.
If an Ellison TBI is to be installed, the plug at the opposite end of the fuel inlet may be tapped with a quarter pipe thread. Screw the fuel pressure sender directly into the tapped plug and the tee arrangement is not needed at the inlet side. Figure out how to put a fine mesh screen in this mod since access on the plug side is unfiltered.
Try to do a system check before installation, make sure all components are fuel tight under pressure. Check for even flow from all the primer lines.
If all else fails call Bob the Plumber.