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Messages - Lowlevldevl

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16
I guess my last post was a little confusing. Let me try again.
My EZ, as I bought it rolled right. Even with full left trim.
Adding 2 washers to the RH upper outboard fixed that.
I haven't measured sweep or rudder alignment so I don't know exactly whats crooked about my plane so that the RH upper outboard bolt needs so many washers. I am pleased however that now I can fly it hands off if I want, I couldn't before. I have measured the distance from the nose back to the wingtips and that distance is identical. Next time I fly it I'll pay more attention to what the ball is doing when trimmed for level flight. That might give me some clues as to where to look next. Unless it looks like being an easy fix though I'll probably just live with it.

17
I did what you said Waiter. Measuring the way you suggested, the difference between port and starboard was 4 mm, starboard having the highest angle of incidence already. I added 2 of those thin washers to the upper outboard bolt ( there was already an extra 2 thick ones there!) which took the difference out to 7mm.
I test flew it just now and it did what I'd hoped. With the starboard fuel tank empty I have enough left aileron trim to fly a lazy left-hand arc. Couldn't do that before!
Now we're a happy Ozzie EZ
 :D

18
Thanks Waiter. That's exactly the kind of information I was looking for! :)

19
Hi All,
Chapter 19 mentions that main wing incidence needs to be jigged to zero by adding 860-916L washers to the outboard wing attach bolts to change incidence. Any body here have experience with doing this? I'm not the builder. Mine rolls right and I'm assuming I need to loosen all 3 bolts on the starboard wing, remove the upper outboard bolt, slip another shim washer down through the gap at the shear web, reinstall the bolt and tighten all 3 again. Any advice gratefully received.
PS I have an A&P in my hangar here full time to supervise but he's never done this either.
Don

20
Hangar Flying / Downdraught Cooling with Exhaust Augmentation
« on: April 07, 2007, 09:10:46 PM »
Hey Bill,
Thanks for the reply. I find your chronicles particularly interesting and I'm getting some great information off this and other forums as well. As a matter of interest, since my last post I changed the position of both my armpit scoops rearward about 4 inches each side because my new engine monitor was telling me that cylinders #1 and 2 needed more airflow. #1 in particular!
The result is that #1 being further aft is running cooler and in line with #3 (they're on the same side of course so, perfect!) #2 is running much cooler than #4 so obviously I need to move the scoop forward again on that side so that its in the same position relative to cylinders 2 & 4 as the scoop on the opposite side is to 1 & 3. It won't look symmetrical from the outside but it should work better. I'll let you know!
Your article on the longer intake tube from your carb got me thinking. My internet research tends to suggest that I'm not going to be able to run LOP smoothly until I do something similar, or go injected$$$$. Anybody else have any suggestions for repositioning an MA-4 on an 0-320 to achieve better fuel air mixing?
I haven't subscribed to the CSA newsletter yet. Guess I should get onto that! Is it possible to get back issues from them?
Cheers again,
Don.

21
Hangar Flying / Downdraught Cooling with Exhaust Augmentation
« on: April 05, 2007, 04:14:29 PM »
Hey everyone,
I've decided after reading a number of articles (Bill James's EZ Chronicles in particular. Inspiring!) that I'd like to convert my 0-320 Long to downdraught cooling with exhaust augmentation. Unfortunately my construction talents are nothing like Bills' so I'm looking for a conversion that is way simpler than that. I'm thinking pressurized top cowl (like Drews) with simple alloy tubes surrounding shortened exhaust stacks for augmentation. I'm sure some others on here must have either done it, thought about it more than me or tried and failed :cry: I would love to here from any of them.
Happy Easter!
Don

22
Hangar Flying / CHT & Oil temps data
« on: March 25, 2007, 08:47:42 AM »
Hey guys,
Thought you might be interested in hearing about my new engine monitor installation. I finally got it fitted 2 days ago. (Started before Christmas)
I got the fuel flow, oil temp, carby temp and memory stick data options with mine. By the way my Long has an 0-320 Lycoming.
Original equipment is a JPI slimline oil temp gauge which usually showed fairly high temps, I fly in the tropics and only have a smallish oil cooler. The new EDM-700 oil temp shows around 10 degrees hotter than the slimline. A test flight today saw 262F. Looks like I'm due for a bigger cooler :cry:
No. 1 cylinder is the hottest and touched 470F today on the same test flight. The original CHT probe was a gasket type on No.2 and showed mid range. I have to conclude that my real temps have always been much higher than I thought so I achieved my aim of better understanding whats going on with my powerplant because I have the engine analyzer. What to do about #1 CHT now?
The memory stick option is great. I downloaded the last couple of test flights and analyzed em in EZ Trends (JPI) and I can see exactly what my engine was doing the whole time. Interesting! I got some crap under the needle valve during my first test flight so the float valve wasn't sealing, the carb flooded and the engine flamed out when I pulled the power on base. It all shows on the graph and I  see it took me about 25 secs to recognize it, restart and make it back to the field.
Apart from downdraught cooling, anybody have any suggestions as to how to fix the high temps on No.1?
Cheers.

23
Hangar Flying / Oil Heat
« on: March 23, 2007, 09:08:48 PM »
I can see the merit in that. Hot oil will still be circulating through the cooler will it not and will therefore be putting off a lot of radiant heat?

24
Hangar Flying / Oil Heat
« on: March 22, 2007, 07:06:25 AM »
Hi Don,
Thanks for sending the pics. Your mock-up looks pretty good to me.
Something that isn't explained though. How do you turn this system on and off. I live in the tropics and when I need extra oil cooling the cockpit is already quite warm. If a system like this was always on it would be unbearably hot. Is there some way to dump the heated air overboard? I think Waiters nose mounted system had this feature.
Perhaps this system is simply not suitable for my environment.  :(  
Cheers,
Don

25
Hangar Flying / My Long-EZ nose gear won't stay up!
« on: July 19, 2006, 05:06:52 PM »
Drew,
Yeah mostly its a wish list. If I can fix this problem with the ratchet, the EZ-Lift will fall a little further down the list.

MacGuyver, Jack, 2muchepoxy,
Thanks for that, the ratchet sounds like its exactly what I need. :D

26
Hangar Flying / My Long-EZ nose gear won't stay up!
« on: July 19, 2006, 06:28:02 AM »
Waiter,
Thanks for that. I'll make a more thorough search of the CP's to try to find the instructions for that mod.

Pete,
I just bought my Long at Easter. I use it to commute to Ag-pilotting jobs up and down the east coast. I'm totally happy with it so far but can see I can spend probably what I paid for it on upgrades! Strong electric pitch trim, Electronic ignition, Nose lift, EZ pilot auto pilot, Blue mountain, Garmin 480, Fuel injection, Graphic engine monitor.....................ad infinitum.
Home is the Atherton Tablelands but I'm hardly ever there. There are another three Long-EZ's in Cairns.
My email address is Don_Blanch@hotmail.com
Drop me a line and lets see if we can catch up sometime. I'm in central western NSW right now, Weipa (FNQ)in a week.
Cheers,
Don

27
Hangar Flying / My Long-EZ nose gear won't stay up!
« on: July 19, 2006, 12:33:46 AM »
The nose gear in the Long-EZ I recently acquired doesn't seem to want to stay in the retracted position until we're up into the cruise. If I wind it up after take-off it might stay put sometimes, but if I pull an extra G during the climbout it just lets itself back down again. I'm new to this and even though I've searched these boards, Canard Pusher archives and other forums, can't see anything to explain the cause of the problem or what needs to be adjusted/ tightened to fix it. Thanks in advance.
Don

28
Thanks Guys. I'm on my own so Snappy, your system looks just the ticket.

29
Thanks Waiter,
Your website is one of the most interesting EZ sites I've found.
If you wanted to send me your sketch my email is don_blanch@hotmail.com

30
Hi guys!
Here's yet another dumb question from me.
Following on from one of my earlier questions, I need to jack my Long-EZ to remove the wheels (one at a time) so I can change brake discs. Where are the jack points? Do you go under the gear legs with a floor jack? Or padding on a saw horse under a wing?
If so at what station?

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