Hangar Flying

Drew, I cannot find the CP 28.   Is there some way that I can get
a copy or at least page 8?  

Thanks.    

Bruce Hughes

Thanks Drew.   I will look it up.   CPs that old are stored in
my ministorage.   Will take a while to find it.

Bruce Hughes  

Hi Mike.   Beware of making a lot of mods.   They can take years to do.
I speak from experience.   The Longeze is still not flying although
I have worked on it for 15 years (not entirely fulltime -there are
other things in one's life as well).   The major mistake was having an
airplane ready to fly and then going to a large engine.

The only WORTHWHILE mods in my opinion:

1. Start with the O320 engine as you plan to do
2. Longer nose is ESSENTIAL for any decent sized engine for
    weight and balance.   You will need a GOOD SIZED battery.
    Get it as far forward as possible.
3. Do a FEW of the other mods but don't get too involved in mods.
4. Mods not mentioned earlier:
    a foot rest in the copilot/passenger 's space.  The most uncomfortable
    seat that I have ever used was the passenger's seat in a Longeze.
    That includes several rides in several different Longezes.
    As soon as I had my own project, I experimented.   A small,
    removable "shelf" where you normally put your feet helps a
    lot.   It still provides storage space for some small items
    (which you CANNOT reach in flight).   These must be light for
    the sake of a reasonable weight/balance.
5. Put the headphone jacks for the passenger BEHIND and to the right
    of the passenger so the cords are not constantly in the way.
6. Be sure that the upper cowling will clear the oil dip stick.   Mine
    always rubbed so I forced it.   One day the dip stick slipped right
    out and got a 90 degree bend in the stick part.   Bummer.
7. Drain holes at the lowest point in the nose (probably there are 4
   "lowest" points.   These are not necessary if it never rains where
   you live <grin>
8. Stainless steel fitting under the nose (close to the drain holes)
    so you can easily tie it down.    Of course you need the wing
    tiedown holes too.   These fittings are U shaped and have threads
    on the 2 "legs" of the U.   I think boat supply places have them.
9. Be VERY cautious about putting a fuel sump under the passenger
    or in the arm rests.   You don't have ANY room under the arm
    rests.   AND the space under the passenger probably is totally
    inadequate for a sump.   My passenger's space is enough for
    a passenger who is about 5' 5" AND is willing to sit on the FLOOR
    with only a very thin pad undereneath.   There is no such thing
    as a "thigh support" in my Longeze; just the thin pad.

Bruce Hughes

Hi Allen.

I am not planning to send you any pictures; I don't know if my new
design will really work.   I don't want someone else to make the
same mistake I may be making.

All that I can say is: (1) the front of the hatch has one pin that
inserts into the underside of the top surface of the nose and
(2) there are 2 latches in the back, one on each side.   I also
plan to use a "safety" latch for the 1st 100 hours, just in case.

Anyway I initially had a pair of "C" shaped hinges on the hatch.
Those were copied from someone's club design.    I found that
they hit the top of the battery.   So I was forced to move the
battery back or throw away the hinges.

I threw away the hinges.   Lot of work for nothing.   Watch for that
problem.

Bruce Hughes

Hi Glennbob

You asked "how to get the antenna back to the fuselage..."

Remember MUCH of the canard is INSIDE the fuselage, especially
the lower surface of the canard.

So much of the antenna, including the larger part in the center,
the coax connector, is already inside the fuselage.

Bruce Hughes

Hi Afif

Do you know any other varieze or canard-pusher people in your area?
Repairs are pretty simple but one has to look at the damage and see
how bad it is.

Also there are people (on canard-aviators@yahoogroups.com) who
can be very helpful aand do not use this site.   Try your posting there
AFTER you have joined the group.

We need a phone number and your email address before we can be
any direct help.

Bruce Hughes

Many of us have a NACA duct in that area.   We also have an
access plate in the top of the duct so the inside of the "hell hole"
can be reached (with difficulty)

Just be aware that the area you are changing is extremely useful
for passage of (1) throttle, mixture, and carb heat controls  
(2) fuel line   (3) 12 V and ground wires    (4) sensor wires  
(5) rudder cables (6) aileron controls   (7) cabin heat air or oil line
and vacuum line if you have such

The area is nearly impossible to reach unless the aircraft is sitting
upside down.   ALL of the above (1-7) should be installed while you
have it upside down.   Nothing there is easy to change later

I think there is a VERY high potential for you to find that the change
in the plans was NOT a good idea.

It will be VERY difficult to change back to the original configuration
after you do the cutting.   I have a NACA duct there but I have often
wished that the air was coming in on each side ABOVE the strakes.
Lots of builders use downdraft cooling.  

 

Bruce Hughes

Glenn Bob

I have seen those covers for sale somewhere....   Don't remember.

Anyway you can make your own.    Get a set (3) of Tony Bingelis's
books.   The whole technique is in one of them (not the firewall forward
one).  

Temperature control is pretty important.  Working quickly is VERY important.

You probably will get a few bubbles but they will not show as long as
you are flying at a legal atitude.    :roll:    If you cannot tolerate ANY
bubbles, you have to find the place to buy a professional cover.

I have a homemaid cover.   I made it because I could not force myself
to buy those expensive Whelen strobes.   Saved $200 and it only
took 200 hours.   Got a strobe set that is made for busses or
something.

Looks pretty good.   Entirely cosmetic; your airspeed will be maybe
0.001 knot faster.

Bruce Hughes