POH-Checklist for o-320 Long ez

[n106nc]

After Twenty years of off and on building spurts(by my Dad for 15 of those years)Long EZ N106NC was Sucessfully taxi tested yesterday!!
My question is,does anybody out in cyberspace have a POH and a cockpit checklist for a 0-320 e2a powered Long EZ?
  I'm also looking for high time EZ pilot in the SOCAL (CMA)area willing to test fly this new bird.I'm a low time pilot that has only flown 172's and Warriors and am looking for transition training in a canard trainer.I know this is a tall order but after 20+ years I'm willing to wait a little longer (if need be)
  After the initial taxi test one thing was noted-The Brakes SUCK-I have Cleveland brakes with stainless rotors-fire wall mounted master cylinders,poly flo brake lines(PLASTIC).Several EZ pilots tell me the initial break-in (no pun intended)period one needs to put a lot of heat into the system to break in the pads and to condition the rotors,by dragging the brakes at relatively high speed,for a relativly long distance to get the system to work up to its potential-anyone out there have any experience in this area?Also it was put to me that I should wrap "fiberfrax-heat barrier) around the bottom of the gear legs (the axel and brake caliper area) to protect from extreme heat generated by the brake components.
Also, if heat is such an issue, then it seems that the poly flow brake lines
would be suject to failure-any input would be appreciated!!
                                                                        THANKS,
                                                                                      MIKE BISETTI
                                                               (N106NC O320 E2A)

[Anonymous]

Comparitively speaking (Spam Can) you're right the brakes do suck.
After 20 years in the same Long, I have seen and made improvements but nothing that will get you back to what you would expect.

Masters to the front, heavy duty calipers, metalic linings etc all offer improvement. I don't have the legs wrapped but do have good ventilation in the wheel pants. I cannot imagine enough heat being generated to hurt the legs when no pants are there to contain the heat. You can make major changes  if you want and if your really uncomfortable but this will eat into flying time.

I still have the masters on the firewall with the best intentions of moving them forward but have not done so now for five years.

New pads will feel like you have some grease on the wheel but this feeling goes away on the first landing when as they say it appears to break in.

I just got used to the brakes and what to expect.

Set down slow, 60 to 65 knots. keep the nose up and let the wind do some breaking. Keep the idle low, 600 to 750 RPM. The first ten hours I had the idle set to 950 rpm and it kept pushing the plane down the runway.

 I now only use the brakes to taxi or if I want to "make" a turnoff however our runway is 3800 feet so there is lots of distance to slow down without using the brakes.

For the first few solo flights, wait for a headwind and keep it light and slow or as slow as you feel comfortable.

Some of the other flyers will have some other pointers for you I'm sure.

Good luck and have fun, you're in for something real special.

[Drew]

Wrap the legs behind the disks AND install metal heat shields.  You will not be happy if you melt the legs----it has happened to several people.

[easyrider]

Definately put heat shields on your gear legs and shield the nylon brake lines from the gear legs to the brake calipers.
Metallic brake linings need bedding in, taxi at 40 to 50 mph and apply the brakes hard to a stop. Do this 2/3 times allowing cool down between applications.With brakes hard on run engine to max power, the aircraft should not creep forward.These are the instructions from a Rapco brake lining kit.
Easyrider

[Harry A]

< Sucessfully taxi tested yesterday!!>

Congratulations, one more big step down toward flying your bird.

<My question is,does anybody out in cyberspace have a POH and a cockpit checklist for a 0-320 e2a powered Long EZ?>

Procedures should be the same as O-235 models, just modify power settings (red lines and restricted ranges) for the  engine you are using.

<  After the initial taxi test one thing was noted-The Brakes SUCK-I have Cleveland brakes with stainless rotors-fire wall mounted master cylinders,poly flo brake lines(PLASTIC).>

With a 20+ yr. project yours might have the original light duty brakes, if so there are kits out there from Cleveland to change to a thicker disc which helps. I changed early on to the thicker disc setup and had a dramatic increase in effectivness.

<Several EZ pilots tell me the initial break-in (no pun intended)period one needs to put a lot of heat into the system to break in the pads and to condition the rotors,by dragging the brakes at relatively high speed,for a relativly long distance to get the system to work up to its potential-anyone out there have any experience in this area?>

Don't know about the above process but the one that came with my brakes suggested a process of low speed with brakes on for a couple of 100ft stop and let cool for several minutes then repeat several times. This was suppose to post cure the pads without glazing them. Your results may vary!

<Also it was put to me that I should wrap "fiberfrax-heat barrier) around the bottom of the gear legs (the axel and brake caliper area) to protect from extreme heat generated by the brake components.>

Absolutely

<Also, if heat is such an issue, then it seems that the poly flow brake lines
would be suject to failure-any input would be appreciated!!


THANKS,
MIKE BISETTI
(N106NC O320 E2A)>


Don't know about Poy flow tubing my experience is that Nylo-seal is what should be used for brake lines.

My experience was on a windy day with long xwind taxi luckily the tubing failed just as I came to a stop. The entire caliper heated up to the point that the tubing softened and failed right at the fitting into the caliper.

The fix was adding a short stainless steel braided hose from "Earls Performance Products" with standard 37 degree fittings on the caliper to a small adapter block just short of the  gear leg faring.

[Arleigh (Bruce ) Hughes]

Hi

The FAA requires you to have a POH.   You could temporarily use the
RAF manual but it needs a lot of editing.

You can edit a RAF Manual to show higher landing speed, etc.   Look
for information from others that have the same engine.   I have the
same engine but am not yet ready to do the editing as it has not flown.

I have the same problem in that I need some training in a O320 Longeze
and I live too far from most of the Longeze pilots.   I am near Olympia,
WA.   If you hear of a CFI with a Cozy, contact him and let me know, too.

I am pushing to finish mine soon.   I think I have a test pilot but it
would be goof to have another test pilot identified in case the 1st one
is not available.   Let me know if you know someone, please.

You should replace those brakes with Grove brakes.   They have several
models.   I used the one that is middle in size.   Also used SS braided
teflon line from Earls's for the several inches that are closest to the
heat.   Call American Street Rod.   I think their number is
1-800-990-1912 (from memory) or look in Google.   They are good
and quick at making SS brake lines.   Ask for Tim (on Thursday) or Bruce.

[Anonymous]

I have an O320 Long based in Klamath Falls and travel to SoCal often for work.  Either of you are welcome to some back seat time.  Give me a call and we can work out the schedule pending your 1st flight.

Steve 541 892 7531