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Messages - Snappy

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1
Hangar Flying / Re: looking to buy an EZ soon but have questions.
« on: April 29, 2010, 06:46:24 AM »
Hi Chris,
I can give you a ride.  I live in Oregon, but use my Long for traveling to Corona AJO frequently for work.  Why don't you email me and we can set it up.
Steve
Long Ez 988AB

saemley@earthlink.net

2
Hangar Flying / night vfr
« on: November 22, 2007, 10:02:18 AM »
Hi Guys, thanks for the nice words and you are right Jack, "Fly the thing as far into the crash as possible" (Bob Hoover).  Great outcome and learning experience.  I checked cylinder pressures after shut down by swinging the prop and noted slightly less compression than normal.  Right or wrong, I normally flip the prop 15 blades or so to get oil into the system before startup.  When it's cold, I go for 20 to 25 and will see oil pressure much quicker then if I don't flip the prop.  So, after the high heat shutdown I continued to fly longer and longer until my confidence level in the fuel system/engine was back up.  After 10 hours, I could feel the the pressure come back and after 25 hours, it is back to normal.  A compression test is certainly in order and I'll post the pressures here after I complete it. Also, when you flip the prop regularly, you get a feeling for which cylinders are always stronger.  Good time to check that alternator belt, exhaust pipes and baffles too.

Jack, I know of acrobatic pilots who fly without inverted fuel and routinely starve the engine during negative G manuvers (along with pouring oil out the breather).  Although I don't think it is a good idea to take combustion temps from 1100+ to ambient air, none of these acro guys seem to think much about it.  Cracked cylinder heads and warped exhaust valve stems over a period of time maybe?

3
Hangar Flying / night vfr
« on: November 18, 2007, 11:33:35 AM »
Night VFR?
After a trip to Livermore CA, I delayed my return flight until the 100+F temps got down to a reasonable 90.  Before leaving, I put in 10 gallons each side as insurance and headed home, but by delaying the departure time I was left with about 1 hour of night flying during the 2 hour trip.  The Long was running perfectly so I was confident and enjoying the beautiful trip over the mountains, taking pictures and listening to the O320's steady beat.

Thirty miles out, 7,500msl - 3,000agl, over mountainous terrain and very dark I was decending east of Mt Shasta for LMT with scattered rain showers.  I could see the lights of home between the cells when the engine stopped producing power completely.  The VSI showed 1000 down and rain was rattling on the canopy.  No roads, no lights under me and a poor daytime memory of what the gound looked like for a forced landing.  I went through the emergency checklist mentally, circut breakers, mag check, carb heat, full throttle, mixture rich, best glide speed, aux pump, switch tanks (1/2 full each), scan instruments, nothing wrong and still going down.  So, I flipped on the landing light, declared an emergency with the tower and started "looking" for a place to set down.  Outside the canopy and below, it all looked black.

On the Garmin, I could see a road and headed for it but could not see any car lights or anything that I could line up on so I was going to shoot a night gps approach to a road that was invisible.

As a last resort, I did some heavy stick work and jinked the airplane abruptly in all directions hoping to get some fuel into the lines and get power back.  It worked!  The Lyc started popping and by playing with the throttle and mixture, I got 1500 to 1700 rpm which was enough to limp to the airport.  After shutdown, I sat in the cockpit for a long time until the shaking stopped and went over the possibilities that could cause engine failure.  At first I thought it was carb ice.

The next day, I checked the fuel system screens and found what looked to be very fine steel wool and some brass particles in the gascolator and carb inlet screen.  I suspect I picked up some bad fuel and almost bought the farm because of it.  This is something you can't plan for except to 'rock hop' from one potential forced landing area to the next while maintaining your basic heading.  Tough to do at night.

My rule of NO night flying has been reinstated.

4
Hangar Flying / Winter: Preheating before flight.
« on: November 18, 2007, 09:56:27 AM »
I use the 50 degree rule.  Under 50 gets heat.  I also have used an "EZ Heat" pad attached to the oil sump on my Lyc Long Ez for several years now with good results and a heavy duty lamp type timer to turn on the heater 3 hours prior to start up.  My oil is just under 100F even in single digit temps which helps in starting and getting warm oil into the cylinders.  After startup, warm up time is reduced considerably.  I won't take off until the oil temp reaches 110F and cylinder heads are 250+.  I think a lot of prop seals have been blown taking off with a cold engine.

I have used an extension cord on the ramp during freezing temps with good success.

my 2 cents.....

5
Hangar Flying / C-85 Pistons/ O-200 Excellent!
« on: October 30, 2006, 10:39:43 AM »
If you do decide to re-prop, I've been running Hertzlers' Silver Bullet on my Long for about 500 hrs.  EXCELLENT Prop.  Gary flys a highly modified Veri Ez and can help you save drag and add mph in other ways too.

I'm not sure if his info is still good, I got it off my prop documents.
Gary Hertzler
480 897 8167
hertzler@yahoo.com

I told Gary my aircraft configuration, engine, modifications that I made and he did the rest.  He built a prop that was perfect for my application.  Cruise rpm at 2700/165kts.

Good luck!

6
Hangar Flying / Garmin Antenna
« on: October 25, 2006, 10:19:43 PM »
My canopy/Ram mount does block out amps/volts on 1 2 1/2" guage and other than that, I can't see my lighting switches which I opperate by feel at night anyway.  The power and antenna wires are wrapped and run along the canopy rail and behind the seat.  The Ram mount is very strong and mostly vibration free.  I'd mount it the same way again.  The only better way (I think) is a panel mount.

Fly safe!

7
Hangar Flying / Garmin Antenna
« on: October 25, 2006, 01:04:33 PM »
Hey, I was in Springfield yesterday!  We should meet and fly!

8
Hangar Flying / Garmin Antenna
« on: October 25, 2006, 10:20:26 AM »
Oops.
I meant to say that I have my garmin remote antenna mounted on top of the roll over structure.  I removed the one that comes attached with the unit and mounted the 296 with a Ram mount on the right - forward portion of the canopy cover and about 16" from my eyes.  Works great.

9
Hangar Flying / Garmin Antenna
« on: October 25, 2006, 07:47:42 AM »
Not sure about the XM, but your GPS has to 'see' the sky and receive the satellite signals.  I have my 269 mounted on top of the roll over structure and have never lost a signal.

Suggest you relocate to a position where your antenna has "unobstructed view of the sky".

Good luck,
Snappy

10
Hangar Flying / Throttle Body
« on: October 19, 2006, 08:52:12 AM »
I visited Ellison in Renton, WA yesterday and was very well received by Chris, a 20 year employee.  I was literaly taken for a tour of the facility, and shown all the fun stuff and projects.

One of their test beds is the owners  VERY nice Long Ez and it is on this aircraft that they developed the intake system for Longs.  The install is very professional and well thought out.  However it DOES NEED HEAT!.

You need to build a plenum that houses a K&N Air filter with enough CFM's to keep your engine breathing well.  They have one, but I didn't get the number.  The plenum maintains an even flow/pressure of air into the K&N and must be heated because of the tendency for moisutre to acccululate and turn to ice in low temps.  The scat tube off the exhaust will work due to the pressure differential between ambient cowling and the low pressure within the plenum.

Ellison also sells a 90degree cast aluminum TBI mounting box that will take the air/fuel mix from the horizontally mounted TBI up into the intake tubes and it is recommended highly.  I was going to use a 90degree sweep to 'bend' the air but the box adds additional mixing AND reduces impulse pressures.

Overall I was very impressed by the quality of design and workmanship on the Long as well as the TBI setup.  Nice work!

I think that the complaints of the Ellison being 'finiky' and hard to properly jet are due to incorect installations and using ram air to increase the pressure at the throat.  This application just doesn't work with the TBI.

I'll keep you advised as I progress.

11
Hangar Flying / curious about weight reduction
« on: October 13, 2006, 09:14:10 AM »
Be sure you run your EFIS instument wiring down the opposite side and away from any power cables.  I turn on my landing light and get an automatic 15 degree increase in oil temp.

12
Hangar Flying / Throttle Body
« on: October 12, 2006, 09:07:07 PM »
Ok, I'm on my 2nd Sp-4 and it's well on it's way to wearing out.  Anyone tried an ellison with any success?  I once flew a VW with a Posa carburator and yes, it did work but was NOT an aircraft carburator.  What about the Ellisons?
Snappy

13
Hangar Flying / Electronic Ign question
« on: August 14, 2006, 07:39:56 AM »
Dave,
I have over 100 hours on my set of P/E Mags and so far, still going strong.  The factory asked me to send them in for evaluation which I will do next week.  I'll let you know what happens.

How's your new canard?

14
Hangar Flying / Bugs
« on: July 11, 2006, 09:55:35 PM »
Another use for Bounce!

Rub a sheet under your armpits and you will smell like daisys!  No kidding, I was late and had to go and forgot to use my deodorant.  I was cleaning the bugs off the wings and........well, you know.  You just get some funny looks from those who can't place the fragrance.

15
Park the plane and 'set' the gear so that they are as narrow as they can be with weight on.  Measure from outside to outside on the gear legs and cut a 2x4 to that length.  This is your lever.  Cut 2 or 3 2x4 blocks about 6" long.  These are your fulcrum.

Take your 2x4 lever and place one end under a gear leg.  Place your blocks about 6" to 12" from the end of the lever so that you have to push down on the lever to lift the tire off the ground.  You will find that if you push down enough, you can put the opposite end of the lever under the other gear leg (non lifting) and it will hold your lever down and your tire/wheel up off the ground.

Hope this helps, it works for me.  If not, Drew's method is fool proof.

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