Hangar Flying

I'm in the U.K. and finishing off my Long-Ez project. I'm looking to acquire a ground test prop (scrap prop, NOT for flight etc.) to run the engine up in my back garden. I have a Silver Bullet prop but don't want to damage it by getting fodder pass through it (like stones, pets or children!)

The specifications for my Lycoming O-320 B3B (160 HP):

Propeller/Extension Flange: SAE #2 (4.75” BC dia)
Rated Horsepower 160 @ 2700rpm   
Prop Bolt Diameter 0.4375" (7/16")
Drive Lug Diameter 0.625" (5/8")
Drive Lug Length 0.610" ( ~5/8")

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

MikeD (UK)

Kevin,

What model of O-320 do you have?  I have recently fitted both Bendix mags to my O-320 B3B (Narrow Deck)... no rubber cushions on this model.

Can you remember what the Mag drive gear looked like?  The cushion type is quite large and and only has about 6 large splines  while the other has about 12 splines and is a lot smaller (I'm going from memory here!)

MikeD (U.K.)

Hi All,

I'm calling on the vast experience on this forum... again.  I'm finishing off an abandoned project and am now planning the installation of nav light wiring etc. The original builder did not provide any conduits in the strake area.

My research has brought up the info below but I would like any opinions or gotcha's that other builders may have experienced :

Regards

MikeD (U.K.)
---------------------------------
Wiring From The Wing To The Center section CP30, Page 6

Cut a 2" diameter hole in the outboard bulkheads in the center section spar, opposite the point where the wiring comes inboard through the hotwired holes in the wing cores. Mike bought some pin male and female plugs and sockets from Radio Shack and wired nav. lights and strobe lights through these plugs and sockets, breaking the wiring bundle a few inches inside the center section spar. This enables you to reach in through the hole in the bottom of the center section spar, and pull the wiring bundle down and out so that it may be disconnected in order to remove a wing. The comm. antenna (s) should of course also have a BNC connector at the same location. Mike ran his Nav/Strobe light wiring bundle out through the wing, together with the comm. antenna coax and has no perceptible interference. All this wiring is now brought inboard through a hole cut in the CS6 and CS7 bulkheads (a 1" diameter hole is fine) and then inboard to just inside the fuselage sides at which point you can drill up to a 1/2" diameter hole in the forward bottom of the spar box, and run the wiring down through these holes into the area aft of the back seat bulkhead.
CAUTION! Do not drill through the lower spar cap.

I have fitted the electric nose gear assembly by Jack Wilhelmson and am now finishing off the attachment to the strut.

At the moment I haven't floxed the parts to the strut, they are fitted as per the drawings (all measurements are correct) and I have read the following from the installation instructions:

2. The down micro switch is not critical except to make sure the aircraft has a
positive ground angle of 1 ½ to 2 degrees UP angle as measure on the longerons
for minimum ground run on takeoff and to keep the NG15A shaft from having a
forward angle.

My measurements are at best 0.5 DOWN, that means the front wheel would have to be a least 3 inches off the ground before the longerons were at 1 ½ degrees.

The wheel is already touching the rear part of the wheel well so I can't gain anything by moving the wheel further down the shaft.
I've fitted the engine but not the prop or wings so there is already a lot of weight on the main gear.

Questions:
1. With wings and fuel etc. how much deflection is there in the main gear, would it be enough to get the longerons to 1 ½ to 2 degrees UP angle.

2. Are there any documents showing the  measurements from the centre line of the prop to the ground (I've spent hours searching)

MikeD (U.K.)

Hi,

I live in the U.K. and pay my membership each year with PayPal.  If you send an e-mail to the organisers they will give you the address to send it to. I send my payments to jschuber@juno.com.

MikeD (U.K.)

This takes me back to my cross country gliding days.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lift-to-drag_ratio

Note the Glide ratio section. If you are still interested, read the link 'Water ballast' in that section.

Miked (U.K.)

Hi,

Another quick way is to remove battery, pour boiling water over terminal(s), place dish under cable ends and pour boiling warter over the corrosion then use whatever terminal protection you have.  You will find that the corrosive bits just melt away and leave the terminals really clean.  Don't burn yourself with the hot water

MikeD (U.K.)

Sounds good, I have sent you an e-mail.

Regards

MikeD (U.K.)