Hangar Flying

Hi Bruce / Waldo

try and make it out to the races or prs this year.   I'm probably going to run the vari at prs, as well as my cassutt.  And depending how gutsy I am to pull 6 gain the ez ( this is a reno requirment) it will be racing around the pylons in sept as well . 


Tom

Hi Waldo,

pylon racing at Reno is not an impossible thing to do,, but it certainly is not eze (pardon the pun)

I race a Cassutt in the formula one class, and as it just so happens, the Varieze just about fits into the Formula one class as well, and as such, I was able to bring it on the course for some training a couple summers ago.    Im not sure If I will wind up racing the eze, but is still in the back of my mind.

If you do want to race,, my advice is to buy a pitts or a cassut,   bring it to the Pylon racing seminar (rookie school) in June,,  Pass your checkride (not difficlut to do, but be prepared ) and come in Sept to race!   its some of the best fun you will ever have in an airplane!   

Can you send me some pics and and your asking price?

Thanks

Tom

I think you are SOL unless you can "pick" t off with a credit card or such..
My guess is you will have to sand it off, and then use micromesh or the like to remove all of the sanding marks and to polish.


-Tom

how much you want for it?

Thanks

Tom

Thanks dave,

Im trying to troubleshoot a problem with mine,

I built a new "trigger wheel" (the continental is a bit different than your lycoming) and anyway, I dont seem to have the correct ignition timing with the new setup, and I cant remember what the timing should be at idle with the hose to the intake disconnected, also, It seems the electronic is not firing when starting (via arm) when I think it did before..

Any chance you could scan, or take photos of the manual and email them to me?


As for racing, I think running the o-235 to 2900 or 3000 should be no problem, as long as you are running good oil.  Some of the F1 guys swear by redline, others swear at it, and others, well they are still using aeroshell W100. With Aeroshell W100 or 15W50, after a few mins at race power, I would have 20 PSI oil pressure, with temps at 260F, with the redline 20W50, I would have 45psi, and 250, with around 50RPM more RPM. as I mentioned I havent tore the engine down yet, but after around 35 hrs, the oil screen is still as clean as can be.

heres a question for you, would you run regular oil you bought at walmart in your racecar?

T

I used Autolite 386 plugs with magnecor wires  in my Cassutt (with bendix mags)this year at Reno with great results! The nice
thing about the AL 386 plugs is you dont need adapters! they already come with an 18 mm thread!

Hi folks,

My 0.02

Viton orings as do HSN or HNBR orings come in differing compound or "recipes",
Saying an oring is "viton" is similar to saying it is "rubber"  most companies dont go into this
detail, but is worth noting.

Typicaly the best all around orings that we use (in the oil and gas world) are HSN 80 durometer (or the hardness)

"viton" usually comes in 90 duro, so they are a bit harder, and thus more prone to leaking at low pressure, for my money and time
the next time I rebuild my brakes on  the eze, Im going to open up the width of the oring groove to install a split back up ring, most likely
peek or teflon, this will GREATLY increase the reliability of the HSN 80 orings at high temp.

as for sizes, a 218 oring is a 218, regardless of material.

from what we have seen, MMC orings are kinda crappy chinese products.  its best to buy seals from reputable seal companies that
keep their inventory fresh, and traceable.

also, from what I have seen, you are much more likely to have a brake fire by rupturing the nylaflow lines, than failing the oring. it should be a mandatory change to install a short "pig tail" of steel or alum tubing right at the caliper for a short bit

T