Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem

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Offline EZknotts

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Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem
« on: August 16, 2005, 11:29:00 AM »
Your thoughts? Recently had to replace the strobe power supply in my Long EZE.  In order to install the new one properly, it is imperative to disconnect the strobe shielding wire at both ends.  That is the ‘power’ supply side as well as the ‘lighted’ side. It is relatively easy to disconnect the shielding at the power supply.  The lighted end represents a bigger challenge.  

It appears at the lighted end that the light assembly has an electrical connector that is unshielded.  This connector attaches to the shielded portion of the lighting system.  It is here that I need to disconnect the shielding for the system to work.  Unfortunately, there is no service loop in this section.  I cannot access the connector or the shielded wire to service because there is not slack in the  wire.  How do I obtain access to the connector?  Thanks
EZKnotts

Offline Drew

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Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2005, 07:49:29 PM »
Not sure that I understand.  How come you just can't disconnect the power supply and then plug in the new one?

But if you insist at getting to the plug that is on the lighted end, here is how you could do it:

You probably have one more electrical connector----where the wing meets the strake.  You should have a service loop here.  However, there may be a clamp of some sort that is holding it in place.  You will have to release the clamp---and that should give you room to pull the light from the wingtip.  If the connector at the wing joint is going to be sucked into the wing, just tie some string to it so you can fish it back out----or better yet, just replace it (I hate it when a connector gets sucked into the wing).

Hopefully I did not describe an answer to a question you did not ask---it was kinda hard to tell
Drew Swenson
Cozy N171ML

Offline EZknotts

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Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2005, 12:09:37 PM »
Drew: you got it right.  You answered what I asked. Why all the trouble?  The new strobe power systems have a circuit that negate the need for shielding.  In order to use the new power supply I have to remove the shielding or the unit will not function properly.  I have tried - really it doesn't work.

I am concerned that there isn't an easy way to obtain access to the clip you refer to on a Long EZ.  I'll check it out this afternoon.

Thanks and More later.
EZKnotts

Offline Drew

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Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2005, 08:11:47 PM »
There may not be a clamp in there.  If there is, the only way to get it is to pull the wing.  It is not hard to do.  It is easy if you have two others to help you.  You are supposed to pull the wings every year for the condition inspection.  I think this is excessive----and Mike Melville thinks that is what contributed to him getting a massive soft spot on the underside of his wing that he had to repair.  However, you should probably pull the wings every 2-3 years and probably no more than 5.  After 5 years (of not taking the wings off), the wing bolts were kind of hard to get out---they were getting some surface corrosion on the outside.  I replace all the bolts, lubed them up, and put them in.

I took my wings off to string led nav lights and normal strobes.
Drew Swenson
Cozy N171ML

Offline EZknotts

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Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem
« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2005, 12:48:05 AM »
Oh dear.  Okay that is what I thought.  I'll get the guys from down the way to help.  Thanks for your guidance.
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Offline Drew

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Disconnecting sheilding wire from strobe light sytem
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2005, 03:47:40 PM »
Oh---one word of warning.  Pay attention to the number of shims on each of the bolts (washers between the wings).  You will want to put the same number back on each one----they set the incidence.  If you have not had your wings off in quite a while, just pre-buy the new bolts.  If I remember right, 2 of the three bolts are once length, and the odd one is another----you will see it in your plans.  Also make sure that when you tighten them up that you do not bottom out the threads.

If you have a couple of padded saw horses (or saw horses with blankets on them), it will make the job easier.  You can pull the wings, keep them near the strakes, and test out all your wiring.

A socket with one of those wobble thingy attachments was a little easier to use than using a universal joint-----but you will figure out what works for you.

Regardless of replacing the strobes, sounds like you should really pull the wings for a bolt inspection.  Also take a strong light and look at the wing bushings.  You always want to keep that area lubed up good to prevent corrosion----the bushings would be very difficult to replace.  Even though my bolts were getting corroded, the bushings were fine.  While you are at it, replace the canopy bolts as well.  Those bolts will corrode and neck down fairly fast.  It is picking up all that moisture from the wood longeron.
Drew Swenson
Cozy N171ML