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Topics - MikeD

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1
For Sale/Wanted / Wanted - Old Prop for a Lycoming O-320 B3B (7/16" bolts)
« on: September 14, 2014, 06:13:55 AM »

I'm in the U.K. and finishing off my Long-Ez project. I'm looking to acquire a ground test prop (scrap prop, NOT for flight etc.) to run the engine up in my back garden. I have a Silver Bullet prop but don't want to damage it by getting fodder pass through it (like stones, pets or children!)

The specifications for my Lycoming O-320 B3B (160 HP):

Propeller/Extension Flange: SAE #2 (4.75” BC dia)
Rated Horsepower 160 @ 2700rpm   
Prop Bolt Diameter 0.4375" (7/16")
Drive Lug Diameter 0.625" (5/8")
Drive Lug Length 0.610" ( ~5/8")

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

MikeD (UK)

2
Hangar Flying / LE Main Spar holes!
« on: August 08, 2013, 10:20:07 AM »
Hi All,

I'm calling on the vast experience on this forum... again.  I'm finishing off an abandoned project and am now planning the installation of nav light wiring etc. The original builder did not provide any conduits in the strake area.

My research has brought up the info below but I would like any opinions or gotcha's that other builders may have experienced :

Regards

MikeD (U.K.)
---------------------------------
Wiring From The Wing To The Center section CP30, Page 6

Cut a 2" diameter hole in the outboard bulkheads in the center section spar, opposite the point where the wiring comes inboard through the hotwired holes in the wing cores. Mike bought some pin male and female plugs and sockets from Radio Shack and wired nav. lights and strobe lights through these plugs and sockets, breaking the wiring bundle a few inches inside the center section spar. This enables you to reach in through the hole in the bottom of the center section spar, and pull the wiring bundle down and out so that it may be disconnected in order to remove a wing. The comm. antenna (s) should of course also have a BNC connector at the same location. Mike ran his Nav/Strobe light wiring bundle out through the wing, together with the comm. antenna coax and has no perceptible interference. All this wiring is now brought inboard through a hole cut in the CS6 and CS7 bulkheads (a 1" diameter hole is fine) and then inboard to just inside the fuselage sides at which point you can drill up to a 1/2" diameter hole in the forward bottom of the spar box, and run the wiring down through these holes into the area aft of the back seat bulkhead.
CAUTION! Do not drill through the lower spar cap.

3
Hangar Flying / LE Nose Gear
« on: June 16, 2013, 11:09:12 AM »
I have fitted the electric nose gear assembly by Jack Wilhelmson and am now finishing off the attachment to the strut.

At the moment I haven't floxed the parts to the strut, they are fitted as per the drawings (all measurements are correct) and I have read the following from the installation instructions:

2. The down micro switch is not critical except to make sure the aircraft has a
positive ground angle of 1 ½ to 2 degrees UP angle as measure on the longerons
for minimum ground run on takeoff and to keep the NG15A shaft from having a
forward angle.

My measurements are at best 0.5 DOWN, that means the front wheel would have to be a least 3 inches off the ground before the longerons were at 1 ½ degrees.

The wheel is already touching the rear part of the wheel well so I can't gain anything by moving the wheel further down the shaft.
I've fitted the engine but not the prop or wings so there is already a lot of weight on the main gear.

Questions:
1. With wings and fuel etc. how much deflection is there in the main gear, would it be enough to get the longerons to 1 ½ to 2 degrees UP angle.

2. Are there any documents showing the  measurements from the centre line of the prop to the ground (I've spent hours searching)

MikeD (U.K.)

4
For Sale/Wanted / Wanted: LE propeller (SAE 2. - 7/16" bolts)
« on: April 29, 2011, 04:37:03 AM »
 
I want to purchase a used propeller for a Long-EZ fitted with a Lycoming 0-320. SAE 2. - 7/16" bolts. I need a used prop for ground testing and to keep as a spare.

MikeD (U.K.)

5
For Sale/Wanted / Buyer beware, a long story… short version.
« on: February 13, 2011, 04:45:02 AM »
I’m in the U.K. and need an exhaust system for my LE so was delighted when a set came up on e-bay (item 120653141470), I bid and won and paid immediately by PayPal (5th Dec 2010).  A slight deviation here,  the U.S. version on e-bay shows shipping of $20, the U.K. version shows FREE Shipping,  anyway, next day I get an mail saying the shipping would be $55, confused but happy to pay because I wouldn’t like anyone to be short changed, I send the shipping charges by PayPal (7th Dec 2010)

I waited, waited and waited.

6th Jan 2011 contacted seller who replies 11th Jan 2011 saying that he sent them and will check with  Post Office but will refund if lost.  That was reassuring to me and removed any fears of being ripped off. 

13th Jan 2011 I sent for more info and got a reply saying items had been returned by customs and he would post again. Once again that was reassuring to me and removed any fears of being ripped off.

27th and 31st Jan 2011 I sent for more info and got No reply!
05th and 09th Feb 2011 I sent for more info and got No reply!

Next step is to contact e-bay because of the buyer protection thing, I was safe, right…wrong.  The last contact from the seller was 13th Jan 2011 and both E-bay and PayPal will only let you open a claim within a certain period (e-bay 60 days, PayPal 45 days) my time had run out on 18th Jan 2011.  That’s all the seller was waiting for, my time to run out.  I’ve sent numerous requests to his PM and also via e-bay on his other item for sale (item 120683026861) but no reply.  As a last ditch attempt, I’ve requested a refund through PayPal with the same outcome… no reply.

So if you see a set of LE exhaust pipes for sale or anything from Tomkat0111 or Tomkat01 (as he was known on this forum)... beware.  If you trust E-Bay and PayPal to protect you … beware.

A quick side note here,  I have purchased several items for my LE from both CG Products and private canard members in the U.S.A. and have had excellent service and prompt delivery so what has happened here?  rotten apple or bad egg?

MikeD (U.K.)

6
Hangar Flying / Throttle/mix arms and push-pull upgrades.
« on: October 03, 2010, 01:45:39 PM »
I'm contemplating doing the Throttle/mix arms and push-pull upgrades on the original Brock Quadrant.  I've searched the sites and came up with the following: 'CSA 61 page 13 and CSA 66 page 12 talks about throttle/mix arms and push-pull upgrades'.

My CSA mags only go back to circa CSA 75.  Could someone be so kind as to post the dimensions from the CP letters and any other info.

MikeD (U.K.)

7
For Sale/Wanted / Wanted: LE Prop
« on: August 31, 2010, 09:54:07 AM »
Wanted in the U.K.

I'm looking for a used prop for O-320 B3B (160 HP. SAE #2 and 7/16" bolts) for my LE project. The prop will be used mainly for Ground/Taxi testing but may also be used as a 'Get you home' spare. I will be ordering a new prop for full-time flight.

MikeD (U.K.)

8
For Sale/Wanted / Still WANTED: Long-EZ Conical Engine Mount for O-320 B3B
« on: November 23, 2007, 04:09:02 AM »
I live in the U.K. and need a Long-EZ Conical Engine Mount for O-320 B3B (Narrow Deck). I do have a new dynafocal that came with the project but I think it's for the O-235.

Anybody ever done any kind of adapter plate/blocks to enable a conical crankcase to be fitted to a dynafocal mount. I know there are crankcase engineering companies in the U.S. that do the machining but it's a long way to send the engine   :cry:

MikeD U.K.

9
For Sale/Wanted / Wanted: LE Conical Engine Mount for O-320
« on: September 23, 2007, 05:20:42 AM »
I live in the U.K. and need a Long-EZ Conical Engine Mount for O-320 B3B (Narrow Deck). I do have a new dynafocal that came with the project but I think it's for the O-235.

Anybody ever done any kind of adapter plate/blocks to enable a conical crankcase to be fitted to a dynafocal mount. I know there are crankcase engineering companies in the U.S. that do the machining but it's a long way to send the engine   :(

MikeD U.K.

10
Hangar Flying / LE Mods and O-320 mount
« on: September 10, 2007, 12:31:42 PM »
A quick question for all the experts:

I'm interested in doing two of the mods suggested on this web page: http://vortexgenerator.net/

1. Canard Speed Brake Mod
2. Toyota Starter Adaptor to Lycoming Plans

Anybody done the starter mod on a O-320?

I need a conical mount for the O-320 preferably sourced in the U.K.  Anybody in the U.K. got one for sale/swop?  As luck would have it, the unfinished project came with a brand new Dynafocal mount for a O-235.  

As a side note:  I spent Saturday afternoon with Bill Allen - N99BA (in the U.K.), he passed on some of his vast knowledge about building and modifying the LE.  I also had a chance to see his LE Diesel running - awesome  :shock:    http://www.longezediesel.com/index.html

Regards to All

Mike Dunlop (U.K.)

11
Hangar Flying / ASI colour markings
« on: August 03, 2007, 04:01:35 AM »
I want to mark the ASI (in knots) with the standard V Speeds colours for the Long-EZ at Max weight of 1325 lb.  

Vso  Stall in landing configuration  ?
Vs    Stall (clean) ?
Vfe   Max flap extended (maybe brake extended!) ?
Vno  Max turbulent air speed 120 KIAS (from the POH)
Vne  190 KIAS (from the POH)

Any info would be most welcome

12
Hangar Flying / Restoration of Long-Ez project
« on: May 30, 2007, 09:03:21 AM »
Hi all,

I'm a new kid on the block (first post) and would like to let everyone know how interesting and informative this forum is. But first a little history:

I gained my PPL in 1982 while living in South Africa and done about 250 hrs P1.  Returned to the U.K. in 1987 and found the cost of flying here horrendous (still is!) so I took up Gliding instead. I progressed to becoming an instructor and have done approx 900 hrs and many, many cross country flights (300km). Then I bought into a Fournier RF5 Touring Motor Glider syndicate after re-validating the PPL licence again.

In 2006 I managed to get the syndicate to embark on a complete overhaul and restoration project of the RF5, it was getting old (37 yrs) and showing its age.  We have just finished the restoration taking 1150 hrs between 6 syndicate members, I done most of the fabric covering (Stits system - USA) and all the painting which took me 400 hrs. (1150 divided by 6 is 400... isn't it!). Anyway, the story continues...

The hands on and building thing hooked me again, I trained as an Engineer (Transport and Marine) and moved sideways into I.T. in the early days when Bill Gates was still working in his garage. So I genuinely miss the hands on thing and the satisfaction of creating something of true value. Then it happened, ebay Item number: 280108046078 Long-EZ came up for sale again (first buyer backed out), I just couldn't help myself.

Things I'm doing/have done:

My garage is being extended (I told my wife the roof was leaking anyway :-) and insulated/heated for winter work.
 
I have yet to transport the unfinished Long-EZ back home.

I have done many hours of research on this forum into what engines etc. and have managed to get a completely overhauled Lycoming O-320-B3B (will be test run on a dynamometer) with all ancillaries etc.
 
I have visited a local Long-EZ owner/builder and have picked his brains (invaluable information).

Contacted all the PFA (UK) inspectors who will oversee the finishing of the project.

Subscribed to the CSA newsletter and have ordered some back-issues.

Researching the paint system, I think I will be going with 'Flight Gloss'/ 'Aero-Thane' (USA) finish.

Bought some basic instruments on e-bay (nearly new at a fraction of the price)


Some questions for you experienced people:  

Is there a definitive list of Long-EZ mods. I see that there is one for the VE in a CSA back-issue.

What would you consider to be the main mods that would improve the Long-EZ at the pre-painting stage (like electric nose gear or the Efficient Rudder mod).

Coming from many years of gliding, I'm wondering why I haven't seen any pictures of a Long-EZ with the strake/wing joints taped! They all appear to have a small gap.


MikeD

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