Hangar Flying

There is actually a better way to do this---but don't remember where the source is---maybe someone has it at their fingertips...

On my Cozy, I have retract tiedowns.  It is a piece of sturdy metal that the lower wingbolt goes thru.  It tucks up into the slot between the wing and strake---and you just push on one edge---and the mechanism rotates down to expose the rope/chain attach point.  Easy to construct---and very sturdy.

Jack,
I had heard of running LOP with carb'd Lycomings but did not think they would run there anymore due to the cylinder "not flying very close in formation."  However, you do have Bill James and others doing it---but not with stock Lycomings---they have screwed around with induction tube lengths and whatnot to solve the problem.

All of my wandering around Iraq will be limited to the North (MND-N) since that is where all my trucks are based.  Don't drive too fast----if you can see, you can avoid.  After R&R are you going to be doing any runs up north?

Consider these for your next plane---I put them on my Longez.  They are better than Whelan---and come in a lot of user selectable flash patterns---plus they are cheaper too.

http://www.airplanegear.com/skybright.htm

But shouldn't the master switch be completing the circuit for the master relay?

Also---I thought I heard of someone installing a switch to bypass the master relay in case of master relay failure. And I thought I heard an argument about that being a very low prob of fail.

Without knowing what your %power is---I would stay below 2500 rpm in cruise unless you are above 8K ft.  Once you figure out what 75% is, then go ahead and throttle up.

What do your pipes look like?  Ideally, you want them to look sort of tan looking on the inside.  If they are black, you are either running too rich or you could have a problem with one of the cylinders on that side----most likely too rich.

Go search the web on leaning technique--many people do many things---and everyone's setup varies.  I monitor all four cylinder EGTs.  I lean to peak (Dynon Engine monitor makes this real easy----but your conditions need to be real steady---steady speed and altitude).  I then enrich about 75 to 100 deg EGT on the first cylinder to peak (there are discusions on running at peak, 25, 50, 100, 200 ROP).  I also look at the value of the hottest EGT---if too hot, I enrich some more.  Download the instructions from several of the engine manufacturers such as JPI or EI----great discussions on things to look for).

Another technique is to lean until rough, then push it back in until smooth.

The way to tell good performance of your airplane is to record TAS---either with a TAS gauge----or calculate when you get back on the ground (grab the OAT at altitude---or look it up the nearest weather balloon on line).

How are you getting winds at altitude?  Does your GPS have a feed from your pitot-static system?  I get winds from my BM Lite---do you have something similar?

In the CPs there is a discussion by either Burt, Dick, or Mike Mellville on running at "high" rpm---like 2700 to 2900 rpm.  I encourage you to read through that----you can get the text online.  In your "tin can" airplane, you are swinging a much heavier mass (aluminum propeller).  Additionally, some engine/aluminum propeller combinations have a resonant frequency (certain rpm to avoid) that is destructive.

As I said before, full throttle (non turbo/non supercharger/non altitude compensating engine) is approx 75% at 8000 ft---and drops off from there.  Ideally when you are trying to match your fixed pitch prop to your aircraft, here is what you are trying to do (and of course each one of these things is fighting with you---so you have to compromize):
--generate enough static rpm on the ground to be safe (can't remember what this number is----but probably around 2200 to 2300 rpm).  If you can't generate the rpm, then you need a prop with less bite (assuming a properly running engine).
--generate the rpm you would like to cruise at---at your "normal" cruising altitude--at full throttle (assuming your normal cruise altitude is above 8000ft).  If you have too much rpm up here---then you need more bite.

As you can see, if you need more bite at altitude, but can't generate the required rpm on deck, you are going to have to compromize---you may need longer runways with the bigger bite-----or accept a little more higher rpm at altitude.

I typically run between 2500 and 2700 rpm---depending on noise, how fast I am trying to get somewhere, how hot the engine is running, etc

An interesting note on LOP----engine has a different sound to it in this regime.

Here is the index list for CSA.  There are 2 entries for Honda Start Bracket.  This may have been where I saw the drawings.

http://www.canardzone.com/csa/CSAIndex.txt

You can get back issues from Terry.  Beagle has a library full of stuff too.

The Longez owners manual has most of the numbers that you need.  The lycoming manual is ok---but will more or less tell you what numbers to not exceed----and I would say don't get close to them.

Take a look at some of the engine monitor sites.  They give some pretty good advice on using their monitor---and what temps you should be running.  And of course they will give you the disclaimer on checking the manufacturer's manual.

The Sacramento Sky Ranch book (if I remember the name) is a weath of engine information.

There is also a series of books---one of them called Firewall Forward---that are very good.  There are several more books in the series---once you find Firewall Forward, you will find the rest.  All those books---very very good.

All the lycoming engines run more or less the same.

Takeoff: full power with a carb to get the extra cooling from the extra fuel dump.  Use about 120 mph for your climb to cool off the motor.  Don't let it exceed 400.  Throttle back and level off in the climb if you have too.  The engine will quickly "recover," then power back up and resume the climb.  Can you get over 400---yes---book says you can go to 435 (memory) continuous---but don't recommend.

Cruise:350 for an EZ is pretty good.  I am up around 470 (both Long and Cozy) with no ill effects.  Don't exceed 75% power if aggressively leaning.  The power charts in the manual are not suitable for the cockpit.  You can make your own cheat sheet based on them----but they are difficult to interpret.  There is an RV guy on the web (might be rocketboy--but can't remember) who has a spreadsheet for a lycoming that calculates all the values.  I use his spreadsheet, (you can change the HP if he has a different size motor), to calculate my cheatsheet that I carry in the cockpit.  You will need a MP gauge to do this however.  You don't need mp in a 172 because it is fixed pitch---and the test pilots already took mp out of the equation.  Your HP for your prop can only be determined from MP, rpm, OAT, and altitude.  Most likely if you are in the 2400 to 2500 regime below 8000 ft, you are probably ok no matter what fixed prop you have----unless you have something real crazy.  Above 8000ft (std day), your engine can't develop 75% anymore---so you could go full throttle.  I normally don't---I usually just max it out at 2700 rpm.

I have now been playing with LOP (I am fuel injected).  Works great---fly a little slower----but really sip the gas (3ish gph less---and cyl head temps way down also).