1
For Sale/Wanted / Re: 7" Prop Extension
« on: January 17, 2010, 10:10:37 PM »I'd appreciate more information. My e-mail address is at_speed@hotmail.com.
Thanks,
Wayne Johnson
Huntsville, AL
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I'd appreciate more information. My e-mail address is at_speed@hotmail.com.
Thanks,
Wayne Johnson
Huntsville, AL
2
Hangar Flying / Re: URGENTLY needed Pre-buy inspector near Portland for a Varieze
« on: December 31, 2008, 01:35:34 PM »
Marc,
If you're still looking for a VariEze at a reasonable price, let me know.
A good Varieze will set you back $18-22K depending on engine, avionics, total engine/ariframe time and condition. In my opinion, any VariEze over $25K should be a candidate for best-in-class and include an instrument panel with AI, DG, AS, VSI, TC, NAV/COM, XPDR, and probably an autopilot.
If you find a worthy aircraft in your price range, spend the extra bucks to have an experienced builder/pilot look it over and produce an inspection report. Know what you're buying and don't forget insurance... before you fly the airplane. This is not a process you want to rush.
Good luck
Wayne Johnson
(256) 585-9614
If you're still looking for a VariEze at a reasonable price, let me know.
A good Varieze will set you back $18-22K depending on engine, avionics, total engine/ariframe time and condition. In my opinion, any VariEze over $25K should be a candidate for best-in-class and include an instrument panel with AI, DG, AS, VSI, TC, NAV/COM, XPDR, and probably an autopilot.
If you find a worthy aircraft in your price range, spend the extra bucks to have an experienced builder/pilot look it over and produce an inspection report. Know what you're buying and don't forget insurance... before you fly the airplane. This is not a process you want to rush.
Good luck
Wayne Johnson
(256) 585-9614
3
Hangar Flying / Fiberglass, or carbon fiber fuel tanks?
« on: October 19, 2007, 04:24:07 PM »
Barney,
Another member made a good point -- baffles. I didn't say anything because I assumed you'd employ them during design and fabrication. But since it came up, I recommend you consider open cell foam (Decacell is a leading manufacturer's brand name). Open cell foams are available in gasoline only, alcohol/gasoline, or multi-fuel tolerant formulations. These foams consume about 3% of their enclosed volume -- a small price to pay for 'infinite' baffling, and have the added advantage of explosion resistance if things get ugly. The additional cost is not significant, particularly if you use blocks positioned throughout the fuel cell rather than completely filling the tank.
Whether you use foam blocks or fill the tank(s), you should plan to add the foam after the cell is finished and pressure tested @ 7-8 psig. If you have a leak, use a spray bottle with slightly soapy water to pinpoint the source. Bubbles will immediately form at the leak site(s) and since the tank's internally pressurized, there is no opportunity for soap spray to contaminate the leak path. If porosity or lap-joint leaks are present, thoroughly clean the area with acetone or similar solvent and apply epoxy to the affected area while pulling a small vacuum on the inside of the tank. The vacuum will pull the epoxy into the porosity/lap-joint... forming a bond within the composite structure rather than merely on the outside surface. Repeat until the tank is pressure tight.
Open cell foam blocks are available from the following sources:
1 - http://store.atechmotorsports.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400379+301310+115&autoview=sku
2 - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-290190
Installing safety foam after fabrication and pressure testing requires an inspection port large enough to accept the foam (which can easily be compressed but quickly expands to its original size). I've seen foam installed during and after fabrication, and both approaches work, but I prefer post-fabrication installation because foam can easily be removed if necessary in the future... without cutting the tank open. The inspection port must be large enough to get your hand and forearm through, and can be part of your filler port assembly or a separate end plate. The inspection port is usually a gasketed aluminum plate attached to the tank via a bonded backing-ring with sealed nutplates. This may sound complex but it's not.
As a final thought on composite or metal fuel tank construction, it's probably a good idea to coat the inside of the tank with a sealer designed for the task. The following website offers one alternative: http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9129~subid=2651/index.html
The foregoing may seem like overkill, but when you've flown your airplane for many years without a fuel leak, you'll realize it was time and money well spent.
I hope this is useful.
Wayne
Another member made a good point -- baffles. I didn't say anything because I assumed you'd employ them during design and fabrication. But since it came up, I recommend you consider open cell foam (Decacell is a leading manufacturer's brand name). Open cell foams are available in gasoline only, alcohol/gasoline, or multi-fuel tolerant formulations. These foams consume about 3% of their enclosed volume -- a small price to pay for 'infinite' baffling, and have the added advantage of explosion resistance if things get ugly. The additional cost is not significant, particularly if you use blocks positioned throughout the fuel cell rather than completely filling the tank.
Whether you use foam blocks or fill the tank(s), you should plan to add the foam after the cell is finished and pressure tested @ 7-8 psig. If you have a leak, use a spray bottle with slightly soapy water to pinpoint the source. Bubbles will immediately form at the leak site(s) and since the tank's internally pressurized, there is no opportunity for soap spray to contaminate the leak path. If porosity or lap-joint leaks are present, thoroughly clean the area with acetone or similar solvent and apply epoxy to the affected area while pulling a small vacuum on the inside of the tank. The vacuum will pull the epoxy into the porosity/lap-joint... forming a bond within the composite structure rather than merely on the outside surface. Repeat until the tank is pressure tight.
Open cell foam blocks are available from the following sources:
1 - http://store.atechmotorsports.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400379+301310+115&autoview=sku
2 - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM-290190
Installing safety foam after fabrication and pressure testing requires an inspection port large enough to accept the foam (which can easily be compressed but quickly expands to its original size). I've seen foam installed during and after fabrication, and both approaches work, but I prefer post-fabrication installation because foam can easily be removed if necessary in the future... without cutting the tank open. The inspection port must be large enough to get your hand and forearm through, and can be part of your filler port assembly or a separate end plate. The inspection port is usually a gasketed aluminum plate attached to the tank via a bonded backing-ring with sealed nutplates. This may sound complex but it's not.
As a final thought on composite or metal fuel tank construction, it's probably a good idea to coat the inside of the tank with a sealer designed for the task. The following website offers one alternative: http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9129~subid=2651/index.html
The foregoing may seem like overkill, but when you've flown your airplane for many years without a fuel leak, you'll realize it was time and money well spent.
I hope this is useful.
Wayne
4
Hangar Flying / Fuel Tanks
« on: October 18, 2007, 10:30:30 AM »
G'day,
There are hundreds of VariEze and Long-EZ aircraft out there with 10-20 years service and no leaks. I've rarely seen or heard of a leak in Rutan aircraft, and I suspect some leaks are a result of substandard construction or perhaps a hard landing. There have also been leaks atributed to using auto gas containing ethanol, which can degarde some epoxies.
There is no advantage in using Carbon Fiber to construct fuel tanks, unless they're an integral part of the structure. It looks cool but it's expensive and if nobody is going to see it, why bother? Since RV tanks are not structural members, fiberglass or Kevlar are adequate materials. My first choice would be Kevlar 17x17 crowfoot weave (for its impact resistance) and my second choice would be S-Glass 18x18 plain weave. My third choice would be E-Glass in plain or crowfoot weaves. S-Glass offers higher strength and stiffness than E-Glass -- useful in flat panel construction -- but costs 2-3 time more. The cost delta over E-Glass makes Kevlar more favorable.
Numerous materials are suitable for the core, including marine plywood, but for light weight I'd recommend either Last-A-Foam (6 lbs/CuFt in 1/4" thickness) or Polyurethane foam. If you use Polyurethane, you'll probably have to go with 1/2" thickness. Both foams are fuel resistant and easy to fabricate. As to epoxies, there are several excellent choices. Do not use polyester resins. It's important that your construct the tanks using Fiberglass/Kevlar & foam core panels. I've built many composite tanks for motor racing applications (subject to Gs and extreme vibration) and I've never has a failure.
I don't know where you're located, but there's a vast network of composite builders probably willing to give you a hand. You're tanks sound like a weekend's work. Let me know if I can do anything else.
Good luck!
N31WJ
There are hundreds of VariEze and Long-EZ aircraft out there with 10-20 years service and no leaks. I've rarely seen or heard of a leak in Rutan aircraft, and I suspect some leaks are a result of substandard construction or perhaps a hard landing. There have also been leaks atributed to using auto gas containing ethanol, which can degarde some epoxies.
There is no advantage in using Carbon Fiber to construct fuel tanks, unless they're an integral part of the structure. It looks cool but it's expensive and if nobody is going to see it, why bother? Since RV tanks are not structural members, fiberglass or Kevlar are adequate materials. My first choice would be Kevlar 17x17 crowfoot weave (for its impact resistance) and my second choice would be S-Glass 18x18 plain weave. My third choice would be E-Glass in plain or crowfoot weaves. S-Glass offers higher strength and stiffness than E-Glass -- useful in flat panel construction -- but costs 2-3 time more. The cost delta over E-Glass makes Kevlar more favorable.
Numerous materials are suitable for the core, including marine plywood, but for light weight I'd recommend either Last-A-Foam (6 lbs/CuFt in 1/4" thickness) or Polyurethane foam. If you use Polyurethane, you'll probably have to go with 1/2" thickness. Both foams are fuel resistant and easy to fabricate. As to epoxies, there are several excellent choices. Do not use polyester resins. It's important that your construct the tanks using Fiberglass/Kevlar & foam core panels. I've built many composite tanks for motor racing applications (subject to Gs and extreme vibration) and I've never has a failure.
I don't know where you're located, but there's a vast network of composite builders probably willing to give you a hand. You're tanks sound like a weekend's work. Let me know if I can do anything else.
Good luck!
N31WJ
5
Hangar Flying / Pre-cut foam cores for Long-EZ
« on: September 26, 2007, 03:09:50 PM »
Localizer,
Precut wing & canard foam cores are available from Featherlite. They have no website, but you can email them at fthrlite@pacific.net nd request a price list. They have reputation for quality and their prices are reasonable.
Best wishes with your project.
N31WJ
Precut wing & canard foam cores are available from Featherlite. They have no website, but you can email them at fthrlite@pacific.net nd request a price list. They have reputation for quality and their prices are reasonable.
Best wishes with your project.
N31WJ
6
For Sale/Wanted / Garmin GPS 195
« on: September 17, 2007, 03:14:59 PM »
Greetings,
If you're still interested in purchasing a Garmin 195, I have one for sale. It's like-new, having been used less than 15 hours. It has Atlantic database and I'll include the Garmin mounting cradle/power cable and will accept any reasonable offer.
Wayne
If you're still interested in purchasing a Garmin 195, I have one for sale. It's like-new, having been used less than 15 hours. It has Atlantic database and I'll include the Garmin mounting cradle/power cable and will accept any reasonable offer.
Wayne
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