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Messages - Radioflyer

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16
Hangar Flying / Re: Viton O-rings in Clevelands?
« on: February 03, 2009, 10:47:54 AM »
Excellent data point, thank you flyeyes! I already have my Aeroshell Fluid #31 (83282 brake fluid). Even Cleveland recommends 83282, it is a no brainer. Since it is not readily available, I ordered a gallon can to split with a friend from the oil-store.com for $40, shipped.
I'm definately rebuilding my Clevelands with the Viton O-rings. McMaster Carr has the AS568-218 Viton O-rings which are the exact physical dimensions as the Cleveland Buna-N MS28775-218. McMaster's catalog number is 5267T183, $14.03 per Pack of 25.

PS-Was the failure mode described, squared and leaking, referring to the Buna-N O-rings, I hope?

17
Hangar Flying / Re: Viton O-rings in Clevelands?
« on: February 02, 2009, 02:04:07 PM »
I personally have not checked with Cleveland, but have read about others who have. Cleveland seems to say that they would be all right, if not superior, except in extremely cold weather. Typical New England weather would be OK, but perhaps very cold Canada would not be an ideal climate. Apparently, only reason Cleveland does not outright recommend them is simply because they don't want to go thru the certification hastles.
There has been much talk and justification for using Viton in brakes, especially in the RV crowd, but I cannot seem to locate someone who actually has used them. I will try them, bit I'ld feel better hearing from someone who has already tried them.
Waldo-I would be surprised that if the brakes got hot enough to harm Viton O-rings that you did not also melt/deform your gear legs. It would be interesting to see if Grove does use Viton. Tolerance to these high heat situations is what using Viton O-rings all about.

18
Hangar Flying / Viton O-rings in Clevelands?
« on: January 29, 2009, 09:54:14 AM »
I'm considering replacing the standard Buna-N O-rings in my brake calipers with Viton. Canard brakes get very hot and Viton is superior in heat tolerance. Is anybody already using Viton O-rings with their Clevelands (30-9)?

19
Hangar Flying / Re: Stuck Valve
« on: November 23, 2008, 03:10:20 PM »
Nice writeup as usual, Bill. This is Ye Olde Rope Trick except done with compressed air instead of a rope to temporarily hold the valve. My question is How come I'm never so lucky to find a mechanic who both knows his stuff and charges a reasonable (i.e., non- "opportunistic") price?

By the way, the best internet pictorial I've managed to find on this method is at
 http://www.theleftseat.net/stickyvalvereaming.html

In my case, I wish there was such a pictorial for the "Wobble Test" which would diagnose impending valve sticking or valve guide wear before it became a problem.-

20
Hangar Flying / Re: Aircraft Designator
« on: November 01, 2008, 07:23:08 PM »
A few months ago the flight briefer asked for my designator and since I didn't know he assigned a catchall designation. I forgot what it was. Later I did research it in the faa website and found that the correct designation was, in fact, LGEZ. I've used that several times and it is readily accepted by the briefer. I think the correct faa link is as above, as posted by Flyingwaldo.

21
Hangar Flying / Re: Is it a must to hangar LONG EZ?
« on: October 13, 2008, 08:36:18 AM »
It is highly recommended that a plane of this type be hangared. Sure, the fiberglass is mostly impervious to weather given proper finishing and appropriate treatment with carnauba or better non-silicones like Rejex, but the plane has a multitude of little metal parts that will suffer. These planes are typically not water-proofed against rain and condensation and moisture will find its way to the metal eventually. This is especially bad near the salty coasts.
Now, having said that, I keep my plane on a tie-down. It has a cover and during the worst of the winter, it will be taken off airport and stored in my garage. Hangar space is almost not available and if it were, I couldn't afford the $600/month rent. So it basically comes down to do you want to own this plane or not. I did, so it is on a tie-down and I will be facing much increased maintenance and possibly more frequent replacement/repairs of parts and equipment. Not the best situation, but not the worst either.

22
Hangar Flying / Re: Landing gear bow repair
« on: September 28, 2008, 11:05:08 AM »
Kwiatkma's advice is right on the mark. I would add that if you concentrate on landing at the correct speeds, not fast, then you can usually delay braking until the end of the runway. That way, you bleed off some speed before having to apply the brakes. Within reason, use all the runway you have, instead of trying to stop before the first turnoff.

23
For Sale/Wanted / Re: Terra TRT250 transponder for sale
« on: July 02, 2008, 11:12:41 AM »
Yes, the transponder is still available.

24
Hangar Flying / Heavy Hand?
« on: June 04, 2008, 09:59:45 AM »
I've been flying my LongEz more and more recently and occassionally noticed it having a tendency to bank left more often than not. At first I thought it was a trim problem. However, when I level the plane and let go of the stick, it seems to fly level until some air bump upsets it. Then it goes either left or right.   I've been paying more attention to this lately  and it seems that my wrist simply wants to rest on the stick pushing it left a bit as I relax. It seems a heavy hand is the culprit. I wonder if other pilots, have noticed this happening to them?

25
Hangar Flying / prop FOD
« on: May 07, 2008, 08:14:46 AM »
Repeated damage to our props is a fact of life with our Pusher planes. One best get used to owning several props.

By the way, RAF always recommended against metal props and constant speed props. Pusher harmonics were not flight qualified on this plane, though obviously they have been qualified on other planes such as the Cessna Skymaster. I would think a metal prop would weigh much more than a wood/composite and ruin your basic empty weight or W&B.

Don't most Velocitys use a composite/wood MT constant speed prop? I know the Velocity people are quite friendly with the MT prop people in Deland, Florida. A Velocity is balanced quite differently from a Long Ez. The canard and CG are configured for extra weight on the nose. That is why they can sit on all 3 gears without a worry, unlike the LongEz. So what applies to a Velocity does not always apply to a Long. A metal prop on a Velocity I would think is a more viable option, especially with their larger engines, but still, most use the Composite/wood MT 3 blade props.

My take on the prop situation for our planes is that all-wood props were definately the proper choice when the plane was designed. They still are, especially factoring in the price/performance issue. However. wood props with engineered carbon/glass layering (i.e., not just a cosmetic/anti abrasion layer of cloth) is probably the best way to go now. IMHO, their extra cost is offset by greater durability/safety, if not also performance. The next step is an all plastic, coreless prop such as the ones now being made by Sensenich. I can't wait for people to start using these Sensenich props on our planes and report their findings.

26
Hangar Flying / prop FOD
« on: May 07, 2008, 07:30:29 AM »
This is not the first time that kind of damage has happened to your prop. That prop is most definately repairable, especially so because the damage is at the tip. The tip is the least loaded part of the blade. The thing is that what you do to one tip, you'll have to do to the opposite tip also. What i would have done is to shave down the tips to some common depth, build up with some light flox and bid cloth. You'll need to do a little reshaping and painting.
Gary Hertzler used to make probably the best 2 blade prop for the Long Ez, the Silver Bullet, and the repair method was recommended to me by him at one time. I never got to try the repair because Velocity did it and then you bought the plane. :-)
I have a Prince prop, now but have not used it yet. It is beautiful and I've heard some LongeZ pilots say good things about it.

27
For Sale/Wanted / Terra TRT250 transponder for sale
« on: March 10, 2008, 10:30:39 AM »
Excellent condition transponder with tray and FAA req'd Mod 5 AD done.
I purchased this transponder a year ago from Ebay. The project fell
through so I never installed it nor tested it, but was sold to me "in
perfect working condition". The unit has an "Authorization for Return
to Service" tag from Terra Corporation dated May 22,1995. I payed a
lot for this unit ($670) because it is one of the few of the type that is
legal to use because it had the Mod 5 AD done.  If someone is interested, please PM me. The great benefit of these TRT250 units is that they are very compact and lightweight, like the Microair or Becker units. Perfect for the cramped panel of a VFR Long or Vari.

28
Hangar Flying / Brake Job
« on: February 11, 2008, 04:26:39 PM »
And along the same lines as Bruce's...Gather four short 6-12" lengths of 2x4 and another longer length 4 feet or longer. Stack two blocks close to the inboard side of the gear leg to use as a fulcrum. Place tip of long 2x4 under the gear leg under the axle, wood bearing on glass. Use as lever against fulcrum to raise the wheel. Then place 2nd stack of short 2x4s under the tip of the lever, thereby keeping the wheel up. I saw a pic of this method somewhere, but can't recall.

I like the hinged 2x4 idea. Sometimes you need to unweigh the entire gear leg to test for looseness and I think that would be the least expensive jack method.

29
Hangar Flying / ID this fuel cap
« on: February 11, 2008, 04:12:41 PM »
Bear in mind that ACS lists a small and large O-ring replacements for this cap. Maybe you just need these replacements at just a couple of bucks?
I need to replace one of mine because it got misplaced and the one being used in the interim is just too uglky!

30
Hangar Flying / Cold air on the feet.
« on: December 19, 2007, 05:12:33 PM »
Yes, many have tried to solve this air leak, having partial , if any , success. For example, someone has a web page describing how they made out of fibreglass an assembly of  a disc afixed to the torque tube which then rotates inside a fixed molded pocket, thereby trapping the mass air flow somewhat.  The offset torque tube mod would be really helpful, but google Nick Ugilini's website...very doable, but looks laborious to me.

I think someone in the CA List suggested that you pay at least as much attention to the "outflow" of cabin air. Find all the potential outflow spots... vents, hell-hole cover, space between right side rear console and hell-hole, etc., and you will mitigate the "inflow". This makes sense because you can't get air in, if it isn't going out.

Good luck. I have the same problem, but am not dealing with it at the moment.

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