Hangar Flying

Sorry,
Don't have the instructions for the CSA pants anymore.  Terry Shubert or "Beagle" Orr may have copies.  I believe that it was Terry who built the CSA molds.

Anyway---in words---you need to build 2 little "BBQ spits".  There are many ways to build it---but in the end, you need a structure that you can nail the front and back end of the wheel pant to.  This holds the wheel pant in the proper location (roll, pitch, yaw, and height).  You can do this with the nose gear up or down---I did it up to make sure the pants would not rip off when I put the nose down.

You can buy the axel nut from spruce that has a fitting in it---or you can make your own (a piece of steel shaped like ] welded to the axel nut along with a nut plate in it.

You need to build a bracket for the inside of the gear leg.  This fits on the four bolts that hold the axel on.  You can really build that bracket in just about any manner that you want.  I made my bracket so that it made a "jog" to the inside and then went straight back.  Bolt that bracket on the gear leg.  Screw the wheelpant halves together and put on the leg.  Use the "spit" to get the right pitch angle.  Shine a bright light on the outside of the wheelpant so you can see where the bracket is and mark 2 location on the back half of the wheelpant where you want the screws to penetrate---and maintain that same pitch angle.  Take off the pants, drill the holes, put them back on the spit and use a marker to mark the bracket.  Take off the pants and the bracket.  Drill holes in the bracket and put in nut plates.  Get the right kind of screw that will fit in the nutplate of the axel nut and cut the head off---sharpen it to a good point.  Screw it into the axel nut and put on the axel nut.  Fasten the pants onto the bracket and put the spit back on.  Pitch was the easy angle.  Now you need to get roll and yaw.  The fitting on the axel nut gives you roll and yaw.  Once you get the angles right, use a hammer to gently hit the wheelpant where the axel is (remember that it has a screw in it with a sharp point---this will mark the location for where the screw goes in.

Make sure you have ample plys of glass where all the screws go in.  Make a fairing for the top of the pant.

BTW, there is nothing wrong with doing it Chris's way either.  The thing that is cool with Chris's way is that the wheel pant looks like it is part of the leg as opposed to an attachment.

You can do your own work on a certified engine in an experimental aircraft.  You will still need someone (A&P) to sign off on your condition inspection.  Some A&Ps are a little more comfortable if they see some of the work that you have done during the year as it is being done---to kind of check on you.  Other A&Ps---it does not matter.

I ran both my 0320 Longez and O360 Cozy as experimental engines since they had experimental parts----things like car alternators, uncertified electronic ignition, etc.

To tell you the truth, I think that a hotrodded experimental engine probably has more value than a certified engine.  Of course the Cessna type people won't be able to install your engine--but hey, what the heck---a lot of experimental guys will take it!

It sort of sounds like the same thing I had with my 0235 Longez (2 mags and carb).  I would notice it throttled back and in the landing pattern (gear/board down).  I would get no change in mp, rpm, egt, or anything----but my ear would hear it.  Never really did figure it out.  But thought that it was related to the dirty airflow off the nose gear and board or due to the fuel atomization at the lower power settings---or both.  When I put my 0320 in (2 mags and carb also), I did not have this problem (downdraft cooling-----but ram air to the carb came from below).

You felt as though the problem may be in the electronic ignition----and it may be possible-----but the good way to tell is to shut off the electronic ignition, get in the configuration that seems to cause the event, and see if you can isolate the electronic ignition as the problem.  You can also check the mag in the same manner.

I wonder if others have had similar problems with solutions.  Let see---electrical (mags/elect ignition, intermittant grounding), fuel (restrictions, water, other contamination), tank vents (bent, clogged, disturbed).  That's all I can think of

If you have an engine monitor with a record function, you may be able catch the problem after the flight---usually on EGT.

Hopefully there are some A&Ps that can jump in here.

Engine (O235, O320, etc), compression, and prop pitch/diameter should all effect your engine "relight" speed.  Those with high compression, big engines, and cruise props should have a harder time than that same engine with a climb prop.

And you dead sticked it too?  More guts than me.  Glider pilots never seem to concerned that they don't have an engine.  

Check out this page
http://vortexgenerator.net/EngineMount.html

They show 2 alternate solutions for longezs.  The first solution lets you bolt the mount onto the firewall similar to any other airplane----but you would have to modify the engine mount---all the engine mount attach points would have to move inboard somewhat.

The second solution is pretty much plans built but has a more elegant bolt mechanism.

I do like the way the cozy mount bolts to the firewall----you have inspired me to open up the cozy plans when I get home to see exactly how it is done.  As you know on the Longez, the mount is bolted to the extrusions which are epoxied and bolted to both the center section spar and the longerons.

It is best to get a Varieze friend of yours to go inspect the aircraft---or pay someone familiar with variezes.  The wing joint area is a heated topic of debate----the bad news is that if you happen to get a varieze with this (evidently rare problem) problem, you may not have a flyable aircraft.

Watch out for guys trying to rip you off.  I always say that the builder/owners character plays one of the most important roles.  I know of a guy who freshly painted his aircraft to specifically hide a multitude of sins including a spar/wing joint problem as well as a fuel leak.  The airplane may never fly again.  Eric Cobb inspected his aircraft after the purchase, downed his aircraft, and could not believe someone was selling that kind of junk.  A knowledgeable eye will can prevent you from making this mistake.

When I sold my Longez (and cars also), I point out and document every flaw that I am aware of.

Does your seller do this?  I would also walk away from a seller who is not very knowledgeable about the airplane----unless they are selling for the deceased owner/builder-----but in that case, check the reputation of the builder.

If you ask around the canard community, you will be able to find out what kind of reputation the builder has.

Biggest advice-----don't buy it based on what you see----get help

4 individual pipes will make more power.  The Hal Hunt pipes "tuck in" which will allow you to get rid of the exhaust "humps" on the lower cowl as well as not needing a special opening in the cowl for its exit.  If you visit my website, you will see Hal Hunt pipes on my Longez (as well as a very much simplified baffling system if you go to downdraft).

You can also check out berkut13.com for a slightly different 4 pipe exhaust and a very nice baffling for updraft cooling that is far superior than plans.  If Dick Rutan and Mike Melville are not using berkut baffling, they are using something that looks VERY similar.

Like I said---chapter 24 page 3.  If you have the plans, you have this page---this is the last page of the Wing and Winglet Assembly.

Soo....here it is...
"Drill through the wing with a 1/4 inch bit, in the position shown.  This hole is foy your wing tiedown.  The tiedown hardware is kept in the cockpit during flight an is installed when you need to tie down."


The picture shows 1" from the trailing edge and 2" from the max thickness of the winglet.

I used an I bolt with a wing nut, wide area washers and rubber grommets.

It seems kind of strange that the hole is that far back----but what do I know, I am not a Varieze guy.

In the longez, you flox a aluminum tube in the hole that you drill.  Here is what it says about the longez...

Drill a 3/8" hole through the wings, 13" inboard along the leading edge, and 9.5" aft of the leading edge.  This will assure that you do not drill through the shear web, but will be just aft of the shear web.  Now flox a piece of aluminum tube into each wing, so that the tube is flush with the skin top and bottom.  3/8 OD x .049 in 2024T3.  Obtain two AN4 bolts and make up a couple of removable tie downs as shown, these can be stored in the center-section spar when not in use.

Hope this helps