61
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62
Hangar Flying / Checklist for O-320
« on: November 06, 2007, 05:57:50 AM »
And Waiter's datalogging software can be real useful too
63
Hangar Flying / Checklist for O-320
« on: November 05, 2007, 05:42:36 AM »
Best angle is Vx.
BTW, when you do a major mod (and the right airworthiness cert), one of the things you will have to document is Vx and Vy.
The graph on this page (http://www.rodmachado.com/Articles/Article%20of%20Month/Articles-of-Month/Vx%20and%20Vy/Vx%20&%20Vy.html) shows a good depiction of both. Well, at least Vx is shown (tangent line to your ROC curve going through "0,0." Vy is the peak of the ROC curve. Flight testing-wise, you get this curve by going to full power, pulling back your airspeed with pitch and then climbing up through a base reference altitude like 3000 ft---and then timing the climb for a couple thousand feet. Then jump down below 3000 ft and get your next point at a different altitude. This is known as "saw tooth climbs"----and is used to document Vx and Vy. Don't use VSI since it is not accurate enough----time the climb.
BTW, when you do a major mod (and the right airworthiness cert), one of the things you will have to document is Vx and Vy.
The graph on this page (http://www.rodmachado.com/Articles/Article%20of%20Month/Articles-of-Month/Vx%20and%20Vy/Vx%20&%20Vy.html) shows a good depiction of both. Well, at least Vx is shown (tangent line to your ROC curve going through "0,0." Vy is the peak of the ROC curve. Flight testing-wise, you get this curve by going to full power, pulling back your airspeed with pitch and then climbing up through a base reference altitude like 3000 ft---and then timing the climb for a couple thousand feet. Then jump down below 3000 ft and get your next point at a different altitude. This is known as "saw tooth climbs"----and is used to document Vx and Vy. Don't use VSI since it is not accurate enough----time the climb.
64
Hangar Flying / Members list
« on: October 30, 2007, 09:05:25 AM »
I think he is talking about the post after yours...
65
Hangar Flying / VEZE wing fences
« on: October 30, 2007, 09:03:47 AM »
And just to add to what Jack said. VEZ size fences won't work on a Long or Cozy----they need to be pretty big to be effective. CSA has some good articles and "plans" for Long/Cozy fences that have worked---but like I said, they are big.
66
Hangar Flying / Prop question
« on: October 16, 2007, 02:06:50 AM »
From Saber:
While the bolts we stock are not "aircraft-certified", they have been appoved for use on certain FAA certified aircraft. They have superior toughness and ductility compared to the standard AN aircraft bolts. They are machined to close tolerances, and heat treated under strict control so that their high tensile strength does not result in brittleness. AN bolt tensile strength is 125kips and our bolts are 180kips. Over 20,000 of these have been in use on experimental and certified aircraft for the past 20 years with a perfect safety record. The heads are single-drilled if required by your application.
Most importantly, these engine and prop bolts have a shorter grip and a LONGER THREAD, which provide a much greater safety margin against bottoming out the threads. This is critical because each time you re-torque your wooden PROPELLER, you may use up more of the available thread, and risk bottoming out the bolt prior to achieving proper grip between the extension face and prop face. This is also important because some engine models have lugs installed which have unusually long thread length which can allow a standard bolt to bottom out prior to reaching proper extension face to engine face grip.
While the bolts we stock are not "aircraft-certified", they have been appoved for use on certain FAA certified aircraft. They have superior toughness and ductility compared to the standard AN aircraft bolts. They are machined to close tolerances, and heat treated under strict control so that their high tensile strength does not result in brittleness. AN bolt tensile strength is 125kips and our bolts are 180kips. Over 20,000 of these have been in use on experimental and certified aircraft for the past 20 years with a perfect safety record. The heads are single-drilled if required by your application.
Most importantly, these engine and prop bolts have a shorter grip and a LONGER THREAD, which provide a much greater safety margin against bottoming out the threads. This is critical because each time you re-torque your wooden PROPELLER, you may use up more of the available thread, and risk bottoming out the bolt prior to achieving proper grip between the extension face and prop face. This is also important because some engine models have lugs installed which have unusually long thread length which can allow a standard bolt to bottom out prior to reaching proper extension face to engine face grip.
67
Hangar Flying / Prop question
« on: October 15, 2007, 03:01:24 AM »
mmm. 300ish seems about right. What size AN bolts do you have?
Also---there are some material differences where people use different torque settings. If you can find the manufacturer specs, that would be better.
Take a look at the Saber sight (prop extensions)----they have good info too. Make sure that your crush plate is properly sized for your engine size. The friction of the crush plate on the hub is what is holding your prop on. If it gets too loose, it will shear the bolts.
Only use the special bolts made for props----very expensive---and worth it. Don't use AN bolts of the same size that are not meant for props.
My prop (Prince) has the torque printed on the hub.
Also---there are some material differences where people use different torque settings. If you can find the manufacturer specs, that would be better.
Take a look at the Saber sight (prop extensions)----they have good info too. Make sure that your crush plate is properly sized for your engine size. The friction of the crush plate on the hub is what is holding your prop on. If it gets too loose, it will shear the bolts.
Only use the special bolts made for props----very expensive---and worth it. Don't use AN bolts of the same size that are not meant for props.
My prop (Prince) has the torque printed on the hub.
69
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: October 05, 2007, 03:17:12 AM »
Jack and Allen,
I'll let you know my address when I get down there (should helo down between the 20th and 25th). I think that I am working at Victory and living in Liberty.
Allen,
I'll take a picture of Kris and send.
I'll let you know my address when I get down there (should helo down between the 20th and 25th). I think that I am working at Victory and living in Liberty.
Allen,
I'll take a picture of Kris and send.
70
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: October 04, 2007, 04:15:22 AM »
Jack,
I'll be moving out of the "country" (Speicher) and into the "big city" (Victory).
I'll be moving out of the "country" (Speicher) and into the "big city" (Victory).
71
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: September 26, 2007, 11:03:10 PM »
If you have a source for the 65% power and LOP thing, please post. I am having a hard time trying to figure out how 75% ROP with higher temps is better than 75% LOP at lower temps.
72
Hangar Flying / wing tie down hardpoints -need help
« on: September 26, 2007, 12:50:00 AM »
Marc,
The book answer on the bolts is that you are supposed to remove those annually. However, I don't----but after 5 years, I had to beat them out due to corrosion. I replaced them---and lubed them up pretty good.
I was not too worried about the surface corrosion on the bolts----but don't want the bushings to get corroded (they weren't)----harder to replace.
Your plane will withstand 50 kts without going anywhere---even when not tied down.
The book answer on the bolts is that you are supposed to remove those annually. However, I don't----but after 5 years, I had to beat them out due to corrosion. I replaced them---and lubed them up pretty good.
I was not too worried about the surface corrosion on the bolts----but don't want the bushings to get corroded (they weren't)----harder to replace.
Your plane will withstand 50 kts without going anywhere---even when not tied down.
73
Hangar Flying / Temps for the O-320 160hp
« on: September 26, 2007, 12:40:47 AM »
Can you get it to work at 75%?
To me, it appears that Lycomings modified with either fuel injection and/or elect ignition or balancing the intake tubes will get you to LOP. But without modification, it may be difficult to get there.
I had a Hal Hunt ram air scoop for my carb on my Longez. I had seen people put a deflector right in front of the filter to get the air to be a little more uniform going into the carb instead of piling up on the back side of the carb. I wonder if this would have worked instead of modifying intake tubes?
With my Cozy (fuel injection and elect ign), I run at 75% and fairly LOP. All CHT temps were way down---sacrifice some top speed---but EGTs were fairly hot.
To me, it appears that Lycomings modified with either fuel injection and/or elect ignition or balancing the intake tubes will get you to LOP. But without modification, it may be difficult to get there.
I had a Hal Hunt ram air scoop for my carb on my Longez. I had seen people put a deflector right in front of the filter to get the air to be a little more uniform going into the carb instead of piling up on the back side of the carb. I wonder if this would have worked instead of modifying intake tubes?
With my Cozy (fuel injection and elect ign), I run at 75% and fairly LOP. All CHT temps were way down---sacrifice some top speed---but EGTs were fairly hot.
74
Hangar Flying / lifting of surface
« on: September 25, 2007, 08:11:15 AM »
You can't own one of these things without getting "dirty." Good thing that your first job is an easy one.
Make sure that you have the plans----and consult the repair section. It is a rather short section--but contains everything you need to know.
Make sure that you have the plans----and consult the repair section. It is a rather short section--but contains everything you need to know.
75
Hangar Flying / lifting of surface
« on: September 25, 2007, 01:36:59 AM »
I would fix a delam as soon as possible---it will probably take one half hour to fix---including getting set up and cleaning afterward.
Of course my wife would take that number and tell you to multiply by 4. :lol:
Of course my wife would take that number and tell you to multiply by 4. :lol: