Purchased wing core and winglet from Feather Lite save some
time, I needed a jump start.
Built
a 18"h X 16"w X 12'L table to hold the wing jigs. Glued on each
holder jig the
pager templates
then cut them out with my band saw.
Wing
section test fit, some small adjustments needed.
Wing
cores set in jigs for test fit.
Macro
section together trailing edge to shear web, spar cap.
Next
I macro the leading edge parts of the wing, I did not want the shear web to
change the alignment of the overall wing shape. Be sure not to glue the
leading and trailing edges section together, I put wax paper at the cross
section joint.
Hard attachment points to main spar. I used a hot wire loop to cut the
wing-attach depressions, it worked fast and clean.
Take
your time with the shear web, I cut the bid a little long. During the wet
out I started on one side with a small gap 1/8 or less cutting the other
over run with shears. This way I had to trim to size on one side only.
Wing
attachment hard points floxed in place then weighted down till curded.
The
inboard hard point runs from top and bottom wing surfaces, you might also be
able to see the reinforcements glass layups.
Here
you see the right and left wings at the same stage mating the leading edge
to the shear web using macro. Make sure you have enough so that all the air
bubbles get pushed out. Follow the plans method build the macro up in the
center of the joint so as not to trap any air.
Prep
for the spar cap, I used plastic garbage bags cut into sheets and taped in
place to keep the wing foam clean during this step.
On
the right wing I am installing the Nav 2 , Nav 1 is on the canard. I used my
dermal tool to cut the cable grove and a 1/4" X 24" drill bit to create the
angle hole to the electrical conduit.
In
this picture you can see the rudder conduit coming out just forward of the
trailing edge. The green tape is there to protect the conduit during wing
construction. I will be using a hidden bell cranks to control the rudders.
Several
shots of me working on the spar caps both right, left, top and bottom of the wings.
One
thing I found out is while the layup is still wet, (just after you've
finished with the epoxy) to remove the garbage bags that I had taped down to
protect the wings during spar cap glass. This give a smooth finish when you
put the peel-n-ply down. Remember do not over fill the caps....
After
cure I used a razor saw to cut the "S" glass flush with the wing tips.
Glassing
the top of the wing, came out real smooth, I made sure not the fiddle with
it. I have over done it before. Thanks to my loving wife Lynne during these
large layups, it takes two people to get the cloth to lay down true and straight.
At
the wing tip you add the big re-enforcements for the rudder install later, I
peel-n-ply the 36" bid lay up on both wings.
I
used green painter tape along the leading edge of the wings, it made it so
much easer during knife trim. It doesn't pull the foam off or leave any tape
glue behind. Nice...True and strait.
Glassing
the bottom is about the same, in this picture you can see the wing root,
with the 4" overlap on the shear web. Peel-n-ply around the outboard hard
points getting ready for the UNI re-enforcements later.
I
got this idea from many other builders, and it worked great, went to "Wally
World" Wall-Mart purchased 100 spring type close pins. Used them to clamp
the aluminum angle down tight, keep the trailing edge straight and true.
Thanks Guys.
At
the wing tip you can just see the peel-n-ply that is required for the rudder
layup later on.
Can't
wait till I'm flying.
Prep
work, removing foam to make room for the elevator control bell crank, push
rods and brackets.
In
this picture you can see that I am not using the phenolic bearing cs150, I
changed it for the FMN10. I added the aluminum inserts with nut plates to
make the bearing removable.
Glassing
the ribs, I put caulk in the nut plats bolt holes to keep out the epoxy, works like a
charm.
Here
you can see the elevator cut free, and some of the prep work on the wing,
getting ready for glassing.
I
found that a par of pliers works great to twist off the peel-n-ply foam in the tight
spot of the elevator root. Still have a lot of hand sanding to get it just
right but this makes a quick job of most of it. Don't forget to score the
foam to give you a clean line.
Glassing
up inside of the wing torque tube channel, don't over do it there's not a
lot of extra room.
It
makes it easer to glass the elevator pocket if you stand the wing on the
floor leading edge down. You can just see a stack of board I used to hold up
the wing tip, leveling the trailing edge.
Adding
the leading edge weight to the elevators.
Glassed
the leading edge, you can also see the hinge hard points under the glass.
I
cut a V notch in two scrap block of wing foam to hold the elevators in
place. The table aileron is sitting on was built lower for the wings
construction.
In
this shot you can see the ribs ends glassed and the hinges halves are popped
riveted in place. In the back ground you can just make out the wing is
notched out for the hinges. I used aluminum angle to keep the three hinges
in alignment.
Storing
the wing on the wall until needed. I used ladder hangers.
Start
of the wings mating to the main spar.
Checking
and re-checking during the drilling of the hard points. I've got one shoot
at getting this right.
Take
your time, make sure not to get the hard point to warm, I move around and
used two whole saws which I got from Ace Hard Ware.
Two
weekend later and the job was done. I used hardware bolts coated with oil
temporally, during the flox of the LWA9 bushings. I did not want to find
myself with permanently mated wings. A little of the flox got on two of the
bolts but with the oil and a few good raps with a rod they popped right out.
Then a final test fit with the real bolts, all is good.
Here
is my water level with blue food coloring, a funnel as a reservoir, and 30'
for 3/8 tubing. Worked like a charm.
On to the next chapter, getting closer to finished, just keep going.